Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 7/6/2016 at 1:05 PM, Birds said:

Simon...job updates?

To be revealed in the coming weeks...

They're currently trying to avoid paying me nearly $5k worth of backpay for First Aid Officer Allowance... It's fun as there are interesting developments every day and I no longer give a crap

putting new master cylinder and braided line on my bike.. been too long since I done mechanical thingz 

inb4 i've got no brakes 

 

also is 5 year old unopened bottle of brake fluid okay to use? 

Edited by UNR33L
putting new master cylinder and braided line on my bike.. been too long since I done mechanical thingz 

inb4 i've got no brakes 

 

also is 5 year old unopened bottle of brake fluid okay to use? 


Taste it and find out.
2 hours ago, UNR33L said:

putting new master cylinder and braided line on my bike.. been too long since I done mechanical thingz 

inb4 i've got no brakes 

 

also is 5 year old unopened bottle of brake fluid okay to use? 

I'm sure it would be given how long the stuff sits in cars for, but also given how much bikes depend on brakes to stop at high speeds and save the rider's life...you might wanna spend $30 on some good stuff?

Make sure the DOT rating on the bottle matches what the brake system is expecting (will be printed on the top of the reservoir lid, but if the foil seal hasn't broken then it hasn't been exposed to air and should be fine to use. If it was me though, I'd buy a fresh bottle, especially considering the price.

Also, have you considered tasting it to verified its quality?

As long as the type is the same...

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are increasing quality/grade of glycol-based fluid, they are backwards compatible, but not forwards compatible. eg you can use 3, 4 and 5.1 in a system designed for 3, but not 3 in a system designed for a minimum of 4.

DOT 5 is a silicone base fluid, and should not be mixed with anything else if you plan on protecting the squishy parts of your body.

8 minutes ago, HEKT1K said:

New housemate has been selected

Hope living with a stranger isn't as bad as Alvin has led us to believe

Alvin lacked style and substance, which is why he had trouble with strange housemates

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...