Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can get boost actuated valves if you wanted it to be simpler? But means you have to have forced induction.

Exhaust cut-out valves are what you want, it's just a dump to exit the exhaust where ever you want. But they all leak a little so if you don't take it far enough back you are going to be smelling it.

The EVC is still available for purchase from Nengun.
https://www.nengun.com/apexi/exhaust-control-valve
Also, viewed a car today... getting it checked out by State Roads on Tuesday, fingers crossed its all good.


That's the one. [emoji108]

i swear to god, R32 GTR owners are the new R34 GTR owners
dream boats think their rusty 30 year old nissan is somehow a superior car to an E92 M3
m3 pros
V8
NEWISH
looks good
aircon
rwd
wont spin bearings
GTR pros
none of the above

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:

If I had a choice between M3 and GTR it would be tough. Not sure which one destroy your bank account more... BMW f**kery vs GTR f**kery.
Would sell /10

fypbrah

  • Like 2

Buyers stacking up on 88E. I'm in the green. Not sure what the next few weeks hold, but spud is expected in around 10-12 weeks. Results even later than that... wondering if ride the train a bit, sell some, wait for hype to die down then buy again.

10 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Buyers stacking up on 88E. I'm in the green. Not sure what the next few weeks hold, but spud is expected in around 10-12 weeks. Results even later than that... wondering if ride the train a bit, sell some, wait for hype to die down then buy again.

no green for me still but might just get rid of them and put cash towards a bike :P 

Spud is expected in April dude, read last operations announcement

My feeling is it'll go up until announcement of spud and then downturn while they drill...but I'm not risking it. This is the important drill so, no short term games for me I don't think.

I'm getting spud mixed up with other things...

actual informative post about the drilling plan (but not actually related to results or value or anything): https://hotcopper.com.au/threads/ann-operations-commence-at-icewine-2.3312384/page-32?post_id=23523786#.WOMZ7LgQ_IU

19 hours ago, Borci88 said:

All GTR owners are knob heads 

yaaaaaaas

18 hours ago, dezz said:

Mate of mine just bought a 93 GTR v-spec.. Already owns two vl's one completely rebuilt with some crazy hp motor etc..

frof

5 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

I think it'd depend a lot on the examples in question.

I would rather have known demons than unknown ones, like say, rebuilding a M3 V8?

but the v8 m3 would sound tits.
so bmw v8. RBs are f**kin nuggets

4 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Anyone got steves gtr on Facebook? Engine is out apparently?

 

 

pretty sure i deleted him

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...