Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 minutes ago, TiTAN said:

 

But it has to appreciate to double its original value to cover the interest assuming you are just paying the minimum monthly with principal and interest.

As in over the 25/30 year loan period? historically haven't they been doubling every 10 years anyway?

You can only double every 10 years for so long until it's completely unaffordable for 90% of the market.

If all the places that are currently asking 1 million are suddenly asking 2 million you are looking at 10k a month for the repayments and a 200k deposit.

1 hour ago, TiTAN said:

You can only double every 10 years for so long until it's completely unaffordable for 90% of the market.

If all the places that are currently asking 1 million are suddenly asking 2 million you are looking at 10k a month for the repayments and a 200k deposit.

I thought this was VWL, 200k is pocket money m8 

Seriously though, yeah I see what you're saying has to stop somewhere but we keep hearing that for how long now? Do people need to wait 10? 20? 30 years for this crash then another 5 for it to become affordable to them? 

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, UNR33L said:

Why not just invest in property so you make some money 

dezz likes f**king over other shareholders by investing his curse in their stock

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, TiTAN said:

You can only double every 10 years for so long until it's completely unaffordable for 90% of the market.

If all the places that are currently asking 1 million are suddenly asking 2 million you are looking at 10k a month for the repayments and a 200k deposit.

The 10% of the market who could afford in that scenario are pretty much the ones who have been driving it up in the first place. They have disproportionately expansive wealth compared to the rest. I agree it will slow down eventually, but for other variables, like a downtrend in foreign investment. I think majority market affordability will have little to do with it, without government intervention.

Also the more Melbourne sprawls, the more inner suburban properties will push up by virtue of comparison. I think it's gonna take a recession or a serious drop off in the rentals market to stop this train.

As for rentals, there's good reasons to rent, but don't fool yourself into thinking it's financially better over the long term than paying a mortgage, unless your interest is more than a month's rent for the same kind of place (unlikely). You might waste a lot of money on interest but you end up with an asset or at least a redeemable share in an asset.

Disclaimer: everyone's situation is different. Consult your product disclosure statement. Past performance is not a reliable indicator of future performance.

 
But it has to appreciate to double its original value to cover the interest assuming you are just paying the minimum monthly with principal and interest.


Find me a property that hasn't doubled in the last 30 years.... I'll wait here

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...