Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/20/2024 at 4:03 PM, SKY031 said:

Do it.

I'm looking, so many trash R32s out there. Trying to work out if I want a "stock" one, or modified. There is a mint Nismo for sale at the moment. Just not sure I want to drop over $150k into one for something that will basically sit in the garage.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 28/08/2024 at 4:37 PM, inark said:

I'm looking, so many trash R32s out there. Trying to work out if I want a "stock" one, or modified. There is a mint Nismo for sale at the moment. Just not sure I want to drop over $150k into one for something that will basically sit in the garage.

Himmy seems to be bringing in some nice cars,

ive had a few now and they all have issues- no matter how neat and tidy. theyre just old.

Yeah usual old brittle wires and hoses. Cracked vinyls and bubbled dashes. Everything you touch disintegrates. I think we’ve got to the end of life for a lot of materials used in the manufacturing.

1 hour ago, funkymonkey said:

Mad invite asshat.

 

woulda brought the GTS4 out.

I was taking a shit at the shop and decided to go for a drive on a whim after I saw pats story lol

12 hours ago, Mohsen said:

I was taking a shit at the shop and decided to go for a drive on a whim after I saw pats story lol

Should’ve been thinking about your mates while taking shits. Unacceptable.

  • Haha 1
On 8/9/2024 at 2:58 PM, Mohsen said:

if you lads are keen we can probably get a group chat going with the OGs and organise stuff here and there

Do it.

 

.

 

.

 

Just do it.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/6/2024 at 10:29 AM, Mohsen said:

Himmy seems to be bringing in some nice cars,

ive had a few now and they all have issues- no matter how neat and tidy. theyre just old.

On 9/6/2024 at 10:52 AM, funkymonkey said:

Yeah usual old brittle wires and hoses. Cracked vinyls and bubbled dashes. Everything you touch disintegrates. I think we’ve got to the end of life for a lot of materials used in the manufacturing.

Yeah both very true. There are some nice ones still out there that have had most of the basic work done to fix them. But they cost decent coin. To be honest in the long run I think its probably worth just paying a bit extra. There are only 2 things I really care about, no f**ked dash (rules out about 75% of them) and no worn / f**ked front seats (another 75% ruled out of the remaining 25%) so yeah, its like finding a needle in a hay stack. The other issues I can deal with. 

Still have to rebuild the f**king rex too. Eldest has been pestering me for ages now to start working on it. Need to get it towed to GIR to have them get it running so I can work on the body.

I'll be down for a meet, will dust the mustang off and bring my son so he can wet his pants over the skylines. :D

Took him to KIR friday drifts last month, brought back some memories of the old days heading out to calder to watch it all. Was fun

  • 2 weeks later...
On 24/09/2024 at 8:24 AM, inark said:

I'll be down for a meet, will dust the mustang off and bring my son so he can wet his pants over the skylines. :D

Took him to KIR friday drifts last month, brought back some memories of the old days heading out to calder to watch it all. Was fun

would you like to be added to the messenger group?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...