Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo 555 Vs 740 Injectors? For Ecr33

ausdrift

By ausdrift,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Anyone using bosch top feeds? And what other brand, apart from IDs would you say are the best/smoothest etc ?

So far as i know Ids are Bosch injectors. I am a great believer in getting expert advice and one expert on here is Scotty so just ask him for his suggestions (and then go with them).

SilverECR33 Veteran

SilverECR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I stand corrected - I was not thinking clearly when I posted that, let me clarify my meaning..

the stock reg will handle a stock fuel pump, and stock lines, and small - to medium - sized injectors.

when you change flow rates/volume you will need to calibrate.

Edited by SilverECR33
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I stand corrected - I was not thinking clearly when I posted that, let me clarify my meaning..

the stock reg will handle a stock fuel pump, and stock lines, and small - to medium - sized injectors.

when you change flow rates/volume you will need to calibrate.

Even that's not really true.

The stock reg will handle arbitrarily large injectors. It does not really care how large they are. The limitation on whether the engine will run properly with big injectors is the injectors themselves and the ECU.

The stock reg will handle a very large increase in pump capacity. Many people are running pumps with more than double the stock flow through the stock reg.

The size of the lines doesn't really matter either - the reg doesn't care.

The only time you need a bigger capacity regulator is if you are hitting it with more fuel supply than it can flow back to the tank. The only times you EVER need an adjustable regulator are

a) when you have no ability to tune the ECU and need to trim total fuel supply, or

b) you are at the limits of your injectors and need to squeeze a little more flow.

Other than that, there is not really a need to adjust fuel pressure at all, especially these days.

  • Like 2
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

^^ Totally agree, unless you need more pump flow. I usually lower my base pressures as I always go overboard on injector sizing anyway. Can make it easier to tune large injectors also.

Just remember Dale, the fuel pressure raises by one psi for every psi of boost. If you run 45psi base, and add 35psi boost, your WOT fuel pressure is around 80psi, past the limit of what most pumps want to flow efficiently. Hence I drop my fuel pressure to 35psi, as it's wasn't unusual to see 40 psi boost on the soft limit. If you google a few common pumps and what they flow, most don't like anything much over 70psi, the flow drops right off. For most guys it doesn't matter as their boost level is reasonable.

Most injectors get lazy at high pressure too, taking longer to open, sometimes intermittently due to the pressure pushing on the valve shaft. It would get worse the larger the injector I suspect.

Anyway, the stock Skyline fuel system is well sorted and can bypass enough to run a Walbro 460L pump, which could flow near 600kw on 98 I suspect. The same can't be said for the Evo, every car is different, that's why if you are going to muck around with regs and large pumps you should really be monitoring the fuel pressure on the dyno just to be sure. Ditch the stock fuel filter though, they aren't usually up to the task.

If you want a good injector, the new ID1300's or the Bosch 1650's would be the pick, twice the price of a set of modified 1000's though. All are long term ethanol safe, unlike the 2000cc gas injectors.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Stock reg might get silly if you're running twin pumps into it as there's huge amounts of fuel flowing through it.

Even so, I've seen GTRs running the stock reg with twin Bosch pumps going to it without issue

SilverECR33 Veteran

SilverECR33

Posted
Posted

gtsboy your clarification was not correct. flow is important, line size and pumps are also important, ecu and trim cannot fix baseline, the stock reg is not adjustable , and as scotty as rightly also pointed out, boost compensation needs to be taken into account also.

thanks scotty, I remember now. busy life, busy mind.

I was sure the op was doing some upgrades? I didn't realize we were trying to run stock power with large injectors.

but sure GTSboy the stock reg will work great.

  • 3 months later...
ausdrift Experienced

ausdrift

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I ended up going the 740 Nismo to keep it stock looking (which it does very well). Chequered Tuning did the tune and so far Im very happy with it. Drives better than before around town and manages the power well too. No problems

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^^ Totally agree, unless you need more pump flow. I usually lower my base pressures as I always go overboard on injector sizing anyway. Can make it easier to tune large injectors also.

Just remember Dale, the fuel pressure raises by one psi for every psi of boost. If you run 45psi base, and add 35psi boost, your WOT fuel pressure is around 80psi, past the limit of what most pumps want to flow efficiently. Hence I drop my fuel pressure to 35psi, as it's wasn't unusual to see 40 psi boost on the soft limit. If you google a few common pumps and what they flow, most don't like anything much over 70psi, the flow drops right off. For most guys it doesn't matter as their boost level is reasonable.

Most injectors get lazy at high pressure too, taking longer to open, sometimes intermittently due to the pressure pushing on the valve shaft. It would get worse the larger the injector I suspect.

Anyway, the stock Skyline fuel system is well sorted and can bypass enough to run a Walbro 460L pump, which could flow near 600kw on 98 I suspect. The same can't be said for the Evo, every car is different, that's why if you are going to muck around with regs and large pumps you should really be monitoring the fuel pressure on the dyno just to be sure. Ditch the stock fuel filter though, they aren't usually up to the task.

If you want a good injector, the new ID1300's or the Bosch 1650's would be the pick, twice the price of a set of modified 1000's though. All are long term ethanol safe, unlike the 2000cc gas injectors.

Sooooo much this.

When the Walbro's came out (the 260lph ones) everyone was jumping up and down about how good they were vs the Bosch (and cheaper).

Yet once you were running ~16psi+ on a RB you suddenly ran out of fuel because the 260lph flow rate was calculated at 35psi or similar. Where the Bosch was rated at something like 70psi for it's flow. The 260s were only good for low boost/N/A applications as a result (for the most part).

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Are top feed more superior than side feed injectors? Reading this thread has made me regret a few purchases. .. especially when reading the word "outdated" :/

Not inherently. Go back to the early 1990s. RB20s had top feed injectors. The RB25 changed to side feed injectors. The underlying technology in both was approximately the same.

Fast forward to now. Any side feed injector you buy now will be based on the same old (OLD!) designs that were in use in the early 90s. Meanwhile all the new Bosch (and others, like Siemens, etc) injectors are top feed. The newer designs are far superior to the old ones (regardless of whether the old ones were top or side feed). So consequently, yes, top feeds are superior to side feeds, if the top feeds you are comparing are modern.

  • 2 weeks later...
kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
Posted

I have the Nismo 740cc in mine, bought them second had with <2000kms on them had them cleaned and tested. Idles pretty bad when the car is warm (splutters etc). My tuner said it's the injectors. If I were to do it all again, I would go top feed rail and injectors.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

I have the Nismo 740cc in mine, bought them second had with <2000kms on them had them cleaned and tested. Idles pretty bad when the car is warm (splutters etc). My tuner said it's the injectors. If I were to do it all again, I would go top feed rail and injectors.

Nismos run and idle perfectly, either their not clean or tuner hasn't done a good job if cant get nismos to idle well.

  • Like 1
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I have the Nismo 740cc in mine, bought them second had with <2000kms on them had them cleaned and tested. Idles pretty bad when the car is warm (splutters etc). My tuner said it's the injectors. If I were to do it all again, I would go top feed rail and injectors.

idle them a little richer, will idle silky smooth OR just go to E85 as you need more fuel on idle so they atomise properly lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...