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The difference from my 2.6L build at a RB30 was minimum $4000 (from RIPS).

And that would blow out FOR SURE as builds always do.

So its not as simple/cheap as you say when done properly by one of the worlds best.

I never looked at the 2.8L kits as i didnt see a big advantage unless I went 30Dett.

Edited by Stixbnr32

price difference from my 2.6 to 2.8 is sweet FA!

1000 - 1500max

money well spent imo.

why spend money cleaning up the old crank which was in good nic + balancing etc, I now have a new 2.8 one.

I prefer the throaty note also.

Edited by mr skidz
  • Like 1

engine parts are only ever as good as the workshop that screws it together.

I've seen first hand massive dollar equipment hand grenade on first run/dyno pull and on the other hand I have witnessed bone stock unopened motor's that had "claimed" to be built go on to produce over 400wkws for years.

"I BELIEVE THE MAGIC IS IN THE ASSEMBLY "

Well lets throw something else into the mix, what brand stroker do people go for? Are they as all good as each other, or or some above the rest?

I used the Nitto 3.2 Stroker , seems pretty good so far and from what I read about them, they are a pretty good unit , all good so far, fingers X

  • Like 1

if I was chasing massive power numbers I'd go nitto with full counter crank. best bank for buck if you're chasing maximum RPM and horsepower. (drag)

I had no intention of revving my engine to the moon.

My intention from the get go was to build a grunty responsive street car that could be used anywhere so for the price of a TOMEI KIT which comes with virtually everything for the rotating assembly it was a no brainer at that price.

Edited by mr skidz

1 - Tomei stroker = $5,200 on nengun ATM. That includes crank, rods, rod bolts, rings and pistons.

2 - Machining and assembly, lets call that $3,000

3 - Head gasket = $300

4 - Water pump and oil pump = $1700 for both

5 - Head and cams. That could range from a service to a full blown $10,000 effort. For the sake of it lets go with $2,500.

6 - New timing belt = $150

7 - Bearings = $300

The rest of the stuff like sump baffles, turbo's doesnt really matter.

Items 2-7 you need regardless of what size engine you go with.

Now, Just say you have turned a bearing in your 26, crank is toast.

New crank (looked up a price on Ebay) = $1724

Pistons. Choose your poison. Lets go with CP = $1155

Rods. Say a manley H beam = $1280

Total $4159 for the rotating assembly. As opposed to $5,200 for a tomei stroker.

$13150 for a stroker

$12,109 for a 2.6 assuming new crank needed with the same above mentioned parts.

I havent inlcuded shipping in any of this. Either way you'd be paying it regardless.

These are VERY rough figures. I'm not going to sit here all night looking for the cheapest part or your brothers cousin can do a special price.

By the time you factor in injectors, clutch, fuel pumps, ECU, tune cost, exhaust, dumps, turbo's, intercooler, wheels, brakes, tyres and alllll te rest of the gear you need to "complete" a car, the difference is insignificant.

These figures are slightly inflated.......

I have my receipts sitting next to me for the complete rebuild.

When i did my rebuild a couple of years ago a stroker kit was about 3-4k ontop of the standard rebuild.

Have a look at what I wrote.

I wasn't going to sit there all night finding the cheapest price around. It all comes down to what product you use. Some may want Argo rods, another guy might use HKS. I'm not going to sit there and price up 20 different combo's.

What I was trying to say was at the end of the day it's not $7000 worth of difference, even if it was, I still wouldn't use a stock throw crank.

For what it's worth, a 2.8 is still too small.

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