Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are so rare that you have the only set in existence, they must be worth like $20,000 to the right buyer

Congrats buddy

im gonna laugh my f**king ass off if they are

str8 up im taking bids from now no lowballers plz

also can you find any other mention of these wheels anywhere on the internet? if so please let me know, seriously i have posted most of the information about the rim throughout this topic already

Edited by IM-32-FK

Hey mate, I'm not being a smarty right now but even n1 parts have part numbers. Cut your losses and accept that they *may* not be genuine. What does it matter anyway?

Ignore the smart arses.:)

  • Like 1

Google: N1 Altia Wheels. Looks like Altia is a brand that may have disappeared now, the N1 was a split 5-spoke model available in many sizes but I've only seen down to 17s.

I think what you have is a set of centre caps that don't relate to the wheel they're fitted to, it's a common situation, especially with replica wheels - BBS caps on any number of mesh-style wheels is probably the most common.

Either way, I don't think you have a unique set of R32 GTR N1 wheels, but you do have one hell of an ability to defend your position.

On further Googling I've found an Altia Falken GTR that won the 1992 N1 racing series, driven by Shinichi Katsura and Takahiko Hara. Check out the book "Nissan GT-R Supercar: Born to Race", mentions it on page 45.

For one, all Nissan parts are cataloged and have part numbers. Not having a part number makes zero sense in manufacturing.

R32 N1 GTRs were based off the Vspec or Vspec II which have the 17" BBS wheels. They also have the "produced with spartan air" and skyline 'S' center logo.

Yours seem to be a copy of the r32 gtr wheels made by ALTIA.

  • Like 1

Not even a copy, looks like the standard R32 GT-R wheel with a centre cap that fits.

f**k, this shit again, really?

ok let me ask you this...did all the r32 gtr's from 89-94 and the v-specs from 94-96 have the engravings around the center caps? did any of them have holes drilled around the center caps? Im just saying...if these are not n1 gtr wheels then ive got the rare special edition Altia Falken GTR wheels that were only produced for the Falken GTR team. Ultra Rare bro.

Edited by IM-32-FK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...