Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you take all the gears out, and the brake bands, and the clutches, and then the valve body, and the torque converter, and get rid of the bellhousing and the back half of the case, and replace all those bits with a 5 speed manual.....that'll just about do it.

  • Like 1

type your gearbox code into google and see what pop ups. i think the gtt is a re4r01b?

everything i have read has stated that anything that stops slippage is a good thing. on this reasoning alone, many 4x4 guys will run a higher pressure to alleviate slipping at low loads.

call a transmission expert tomorrow and have a chat to them and see what they recommend and their reasoning behind it.

I looked into this when I still had the auto in my GTT, most shops just scratch their head when you mention Tiptronic or RE4R0__ to them.

GTSBoy covered your main options above. MV Automatics in SA is typically one of the first recommendations when you want something done to these boxes. I also found something called a Keas shift kit with references to Knox Automatics in VIC, maybe check them out.

Also maybe check with Scotty NM35 and Kinkstaah here they're both running built autos.

The cost adds up pretty quickly and depending on how far you want to go you may want to consider a manual conversion instead. That's what I did.

The cost adds up pretty quickly and depending on how far you want to go you may want to consider a manual conversion instead. That's what I did.

^ This.

Although you have to remember, the auto is then built for decent power and every bearing and seal has been replaced, and the stall converter is matched to your turbo. If you wanted that sort of power through a manual you would need a decent twin plate clutch which can ruin the drivability, then you still have an old gearbox with worn bearings unless you get the manual rebuilt beforehand.

Buy my entire gearbox and flex plate and torque converter and PCS so I can buy a manual conversion.

Wouldn't even be mad, at this point... that's how much money you have to spend to get comparable to what comes standard in a skyline for $0.

Buy my entire gearbox and flex plate and torque converter and PCS so I can buy a manual conversion.

Wouldn't even be mad, at this point... that's how much money you have to spend to get comparable to what comes standard in a skyline for $0.

Something tells me the torque you are putting to the ground will smash a manual box in no time Greg, so factor in a PPG gearset also. :P

how did you go speaking to an automatic specialist yyc34gtt?

i called a really nice bloke who used to do re4's but has now moved onto amg's and bmw's. we had a long chat about different upgrades, line pressure, shift kits etc.

he said that the main thing that causes flaring and slipping in the automatics is the shift solenoids and or a worn valve body as they're aluminium.

I mentioned that my box was still quite tight, only flares once or twice in a 30minute session of hard driving, and i am planning on putting more power into it. What can and should i do? His answer, nothing. if it's still shifting fine now with more boost it sounds like its in good condition, if it does start to slip, buy new solenoids and possibly a new valve body and it should be fine. The thing he didn't like was upgrades such as line pressure, blocking off pistons (he called them something else) and the other 'usual' one off mods people do, as it puts a lot of strain on other components and will not last unless you do them all, and it costs more than doing the right thing, which is replacing worn parts.

^ This.

Although you have to remember, the auto is then built for decent power and every bearing and seal has been replaced, and the stall converter is matched to your turbo. If you wanted that sort of power through a manual you would need a decent twin plate clutch which can ruin the drivability, then you still have an old gearbox with worn bearings unless you get the manual rebuilt beforehand.

Totally agree, either option will add up.

The good thing about (re)building a gearbox is that you'll know what's in it, doing a manual conversion you're pretty much relying on the seller's word that it's in workable condition. I got lucky.

Re drivability, I ended up going with an NPC single plate organic that is very easy to drive on the street and has held up well @ 275rwkw.

how did you go speaking to an automatic specialist yyc34gtt?

i called a really nice bloke who used to do re4's but has now moved onto amg's and bmw's. we had a long chat about different upgrades, line pressure, shift kits etc.

he said that the main thing that causes flaring and slipping in the automatics is the shift solenoids and or a worn valve body as they're aluminium.

I mentioned that my box was still quite tight, only flares once or twice in a 30minute session of hard driving, and i am planning on putting more power into it. What can and should i do? His answer, nothing. if it's still shifting fine now with more boost it sounds like its in good condition, if it does start to slip, buy new solenoids and possibly a new valve body and it should be fine. The thing he didn't like was upgrades such as line pressure, blocking off pistons (he called them something else) and the other 'usual' one off mods people do, as it puts a lot of strain on other components and will not last unless you do them all, and it costs more than doing the right thing, which is replacing worn parts.

I have not yet spoken to any automactic specialist here in Calgary Canada, as there is not many that knows how to work on a skyline except 1 places but they sucks and they go only for money...

So far the Solenoid A and Lock UP solenoid needs to be replace on my car as they are done, I have contacted MV Auto and got a quote for the Solenoid A and B and Lock up. also the shift kit... I am in no rush at the moment as its winter here now and the car is parked...

do you mind asking your friend again for the exact parts for upgrading or replacing aside than the valve body and the solenoid? maybe the parts number for them? and Ill do more research on them and make a decision base on that....

thanks a bunch

Keas do a billet band servo aswell as a Kevlar lined band. basic upgrades include fitting extra clutches where possible, shift kit (transgo or superior), new solenoids and modifying the boost valve to up the line pressure a tiny bit. They are a good box and some parts can be interchanged from the RE4R03A range to add in strength

I wish for the life of me to know what is IN the RE401B.

It's not the RE401A, because that is the N/A box (so I am told), which I have also been told is "wildly weaker looking" than the GTT box.

I had a N/A box that had been built by MV, then got a new GTT box which I suppled, apparently very different.

It's also not the RE403A, cause that's different again. RE403A vs RE401B = ???????.

The 3's are a lot bigger internally, use a different valvebody and solenoid assemblies, clutches are slightly different with width/tooth count. Aswell as the wiring harnesses being different

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
×
×
  • Create New...