Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so on my daily stagea i've got a innovate motorsports MTX-L wideband kit and i'm currently on my 2nd wideband sensor.

first one i bolted up to the o2 factory bung so after a few months readings were out due to heat, so welded a bung at the end of the front pipe just before the cat and bought a new sensor. after re-calibrating the sensor out of front pipe in open air started working ok for maybe a couple days then started to get bad readings from 8 - 22. obviously such readings are too rich and lean for a car to actually run and i even get readings stuck on 14.7 and all over the place, on the rare occasion the dam thing may work properly for a few minutes.

i've recently read up on the problems of innovate wideband kit and its meant to have a few problems as i've stated so i'm wondering if i should just get an AEM kit and does the AEM kit do laptop data logging? which aem kit should i go with ?

would also like to hear from others that have experienced the innovate motorsports wideband kits and have negative comments to add :)

thanks

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461256-innovate-vs-aem-wideband-kits/
Share on other sites

I just fitted a AEM wideband with failsafe to my sons just Supercharged Honda S2000 and hooked it into his Haltech ECU.

The AEM Failsafe gauge setup has 2 hours of logging onboard, i just pull the USB cable out from under the dash and plug it into the lappy for reading a few hours of boost and air/fuel logs VS RPM.

It has a wire you can hook into a RPM signal to give you the Revs logged against boost and Air fuel.

You can also setup high low limits in the gauge to set off alarms, it has a wire (output) you can hook into a aftermarket ECU to pull timing or boost in a emergency.

I've used an Australian Tech Edge wideband kit for the last 18 months. It's permanently wired in with the sensor just in front of the cat. Very accurate and it hasn't missed a beat. Highly recommended!

AEM is good, no need to free air calibrate and the kit doesn't cook sensors like the Innovate kits.

I've had two gauges fail on me already, first one couldn't display text properly next one died in 3 months and kept showing E9 then I've cooked 1x sensor luckily this was all within a year so was covered by warranty.

With the AEM units, I installed an AEM UEGO into my mates s15 and it's still going strong 3 years on and readings were inline (a little richer as pre cat) to what was showing on the dyno

Im using an innovate MTX-L wideband, connected via serial data to my ECU. Its been in for 9 months & 10k kms, and still is running fine.

Placement on the stagea was tricky, getting the sensor 1m from the turbo, but also as vertical as possible. I welded the bung just before the cat flange. Did you get the sensor tip pointing downwards enough?

I had an innovative and it killed my sensor in about 6 months. It's less than a year old am I still covered by warranty jonny? I purchased through adaptronic.

Also it was mounted correctly about 1.5m back from turbo.

Edited by iruvyouskyrine

I had an innovative and it killed my sensor in about 6 months. It's less than a year old am I still covered by warranty jonny? I purchased through adaptronic.

Also it was mounted correctly about 1.5m back from turbo.

of course it is!

It's not adaptronic's fault, it's just Innovate kits like to eat up sensors.

why do some chew sensors?

are they getting over heated?

Mine is just before the cat and seems to be surviving

I've been told the heater control logic of the Innovate kit isn't too thought out, so the sensors cook themselves.

I've been told the heater control logic of the Innovate kit isn't too thought out, so the sensors cook themselves.

I am under the impression the LC1 had a voltage regulator problem, especially when the control unit was mounted in the engine compartment due to heat. Mine is mounted in cabin and I don't have any issues.

I just fitted a AEM wideband with failsafe to my sons just Supercharged Honda S2000 and hooked it into his Haltech ECU.

thats a cool little item.

it doesnt seem to be able to display 2 things at once though. would be nice to have AFR dots on the outside and boost reading number in the middle (with alarms active for both).

If you have to run a vacuum line to it to get good logging, you might as well use it to replace your boost gauge... but then you cant read your AFRs without hooking it up to a laptop and changing it.

I've been running the innovate mtxl for the last 4 months. Not really long enough to claim any sort of reliability but no issues so far. Its mounted just in front of the single cell cat and has been very accurate in its readings when compared on the dyno. In saying all that, its due for its first free air calibration which I'll do this weekend.

so on my daily stagea i've got a innovate motorsports MTX-L wideband kit and i'm currently on my 2nd wideband sensor.

first one i bolted up to the o2 factory bung so after a few months readings were out due to heat, so welded a bung at the end of the front pipe just before the cat and bought a new sensor. after re-calibrating the sensor out of front pipe in open air started working ok for maybe a couple days then started to get bad readings from 8 - 22. obviously such readings are too rich and lean for a car to actually run and i even get readings stuck on 14.7 and all over the place, on the rare occasion the dam thing may work properly for a few minutes.

i've recently read up on the problems of innovate wideband kit and its meant to have a few problems as i've stated so i'm wondering if i should just get an AEM kit and does the AEM kit do laptop data logging? which aem kit should i go with ?

would also like to hear from others that have experienced the innovate motorsports wideband kits and have negative comments to add :)

thanks

Sounds like your unit is faulty. I would be asking innovate for a replacement unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...