Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, like many of you I have an R33. Like many of you I have a return flow (Cooling pro stealth to be specific).

Like many of you, I dream of 300+ Kw. I have the supporting mods for it, I have the turbo for it. I have a good tuner, good injectors, good ECU and a healthy engine.

What do?

There seems to be four options.

1) G59brph.jpg

The easiest option. A return flow cooler kit. Usually Blitz or Cooling pro. Both appear to get massive pressure drops at the core and tao from hyper gear recommends not running them for anything past 250kw (I think it was 250??)

2) bbVvKJO.jpg

Top to bottom style. No off the shelf kts for a skyline but requires minimal piping to fit. Piping is shorter than return flow. But how is the pressure drop? is it better? I have read a few good things, but still not a lot of info.

3) 2VwljJq.jpg

A "same side" cooler with one end take with inlet and outlet. I imagine the end tank has two separate chambers? This means that the air has to go all the way through the cooler twice effectively to go out the outlet?

4) *No image*

Home made return flow. 2x 90 degree bends at the far side and a long pipe. Better flowing? longer piping? gooooood? bad?

What is the best NO CUT option for those of us who just can't cut up a daily that won't pass an engineers cert (Damn air bag!)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461292-the-great-r33-intercooler-dilemma/
Share on other sites

Greg made 400kw on the Blitz return flow, on e85. I can't see why you would need anything bigger than that for your output, but obviously a full 600 x 300 with custom return piping behind the cooler, will outflow all the ones you pictured.

Your option 1 style coolers really just need to spend more time on the design and size of the end tank. Turning the air around and distributing it across the core, or gathering it up and cleanly getting it into the outlet pipe (depending on which way the air is flowing to it) takes more than the bullshit sort of tank that most manufacturers just throw on there. Some internal turning vanes and a bit more internal volume would go a long way. But as Scotty says above...plenty of people have made plenty of power using them. A quality core is still a key requirement....maybe some of the bad results are a result of shitty cores between the tanks.

Option 2 style coolers are a very bad idea. They have very poor thermal efficiency due to the short tubes. There is also low velocity through those tubes (which goes further toward lowering the thermal efficiency). But the low velocity and large number of tubes at least tend to give them a lower pressure drop. End tank design is still a problem on these though because the incoming air tends to want to crowd the far end of the tank and hence flow favours the tubes at the far end too. You get less utilisation of the core than you expect.

Option 3 style coolers have the opposite problem. They have few tubes, so high velocity and better thermal efficiency. The utilisation of the core is much better because the air does not have to spread out so much to access the available core tubes. But the pressure drop is high, and the u turn at the far end still sucks.

Edited by GTSBoy

Greg made 400kw on the Blitz return flow, on e85. I can't see why you would need anything bigger than that for your output, but obviously a full 600 x 300 with custom return piping behind the cooler, will outflow all the ones you pictured.

Yep plenty of people make good power with the Blitz ones.

The China ones seem to struggle

Bang an IAT and measure the temp going into the motor and also measure the boost drop.

I found with China Ling Long cores they don't tend to cool so well, however on e85 that isn't too much of a concern provided your IATs are under 60 degrees or so.

I didn't find much of a power difference when my IAT shot past 50 degrees. On pump, high IAT would be knock city

Yep, I made 400 (+? it is an auto after all) on the Blitz return flow. Which, from the outside looks exactly like the cooling pro one.

But as mentioned, it could be very different internally. Or, perhaps there's a correlation between people who choose cheap intercoolers and other setup issues or corners cut elsewhere. nfi.

Also yes, while I used E85 in my setup with the Blitz, it made well, well, well over 300+ on 98. Enough that the intercooler didn't even think to become a restriction at all. I never pushed the boost or timing on the 98 tune, it was there just to drive around on when E85 wasn't available.

Point being though, "you can't make more than 250 on a return flow intercooler" is false.

  • Like 2

I did notice on Staos pictures for his 600x300x100 etc..that the fins inside the tank looked f**king shit and bent and not made well causing a restriction

But on the china 100mm i have here and and half the worlds 10/9 sec and 8 sec vl turbos..the fins looked well made and straight not causing a bad flow path

cheers

darren

303rwkwall.jpg

303rwkwboostall.jpg

But if Blitz or JJR return flow cooler kit is purchased or a must have for road legal purposes, I did engineer a turbocharger for my self during time been, or whom ever in my shoe.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-52#entry7503629

there you go, data is there can't deny it :)

I say invest in a decent FMIC, I'm going to throw my HDi China Domestic Market IC out for a Plazmaman one sometime next year once I get the new turbo setup on oootttsss :)

Maybe say goodbye to the screamer too..

those end tanks look kind of restrictive

Made 285rwkw on BP98 without airbox lid on my car so I'm pretty sure it'll crack 300 with E85.

I think there's a power level where return flow coolers become restrictive and it's better to go FFP and a GTR style cooler - I'm just not sure what that level is :)

Has anyone found the cooling pro 600x300x76 restriction point ive hit the 350rwkw roller dyno mark and been told my cooler could be my restriction up top any used one and had issues

I think you guys need to measure an intercooler's ability to cool down the charged air as well as pressure drop.

Measuring the out put power based on an intercooler is not a good way of determining it's efficiency.

  • Like 1

JJR's Cooling pro return flow was the hottest out of all, which had to be cooled down after each dyno run, and it took quite while to cool down on front the the fan.

And out of my readings, Trent was measuring the readings on the ecu that but I didn't record exact number. Takashi 600x300x61mm had the hottest discharge temp, while the Takashi 100mm, Blitz, and PWR were about the same.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...