Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which would you prefer ???

ATM
turbo to intercooler 140cm + 4 bends
Intercooler to intake 235cm + 5 bends
looks ok

Could be without $$$
turbo to intercooler 180cm + 5 bends
intercooler to intake 165cm + 4 bends
looks less ok

f**k looks, performance matters, but will there be f**k all difference.

Every bit helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461654-turbo-to-intercooler-to-intake/
Share on other sites

I would prefer a modern turbo and loads of boost so it sits nicely in the efficiency zone.. at the same time invest in a good intercooler.

This is for now.. a freebie, those things come after rego man.

show us what your engine bay looks like...

I would say call up Plazmaman get a Pro Series kit and be done with it.

Like i said its for now, obviously if i had that sort of coin to piss off i wouldnt be asking you guys shit.

How many bends could and intercooler bend if an intercooler could bend bends?

A couple

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Ha. The science in that thread is a bit simplistic. It's great when someone has a little knowledge and then freely misuses it. For example, the quote "0.4 mach is when air becomes turbulent", is a load of shit. The velocity at which an airflow becomes turbulent depends on the velocity AND the characteristic diameter AND the density of the gas. As the diameter of the duct/wing/object is not used to calculate the Mach number, then the statement is false.

In industrial design we try to keep air/gas velocities in ducts down to <30 m/s, and often less. That is unless we have lots of free pressure available, in which case we may let it creep up. But the flip side of velocity is noise, and we also need to stay away from the erosional velocity. People likely don't care about that (noise and wear) in aftermarket automotive applications, so the point may be moot.

But a quick and dirty calculation for 400HP worth of air at 1 bar boost pressure and 50°C in duct temperature shows that a 2" pipe will have velocity <90 m/s, a 2.5 obviously a bit less and a 3" pipe is going to be going down into the <50 m/s region. That's a long way from the 0.4 Mach silliness that was posted in the linked thread. By the same token, there's nothing to say that 400HP at those air conditions is pushing the limits of a 2" pipe anyway. Or maybe it is. It will all depend on how much boost pressure you have to waste and how much consequent exhaust manifold pressure you can put up with - which is all specific to the engine and turbo combo that there is no blanket answer. The best bet would be to do some calculations for some actual engines that have been shown to hit the wall and have then had the pipes changed and shown an improvement. Any other calculations (like mine above and all the ones in the linked thread) are pure speculation and a waste of time.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...