Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo To Intercooler To Intake

AREBEETHIRTYTURBO
 Share

Recommended Posts

AREBEETHIRTYTURBO Contributor

AREBEETHIRTYTURBO

Posted
Posted

Which would you prefer ???

ATM
turbo to intercooler 140cm + 4 bends
Intercooler to intake 235cm + 5 bends
looks ok

Could be without $$$
turbo to intercooler 180cm + 5 bends
intercooler to intake 165cm + 4 bends
looks less ok

f**k looks, performance matters, but will there be f**k all difference.

Every bit helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461654-turbo-to-intercooler-to-intake/
Share on other sites
AREBEETHIRTYTURBO Contributor

AREBEETHIRTYTURBO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I would prefer a modern turbo and loads of boost so it sits nicely in the efficiency zone.. at the same time invest in a good intercooler.

This is for now.. a freebie, those things come after rego man.

AREBEETHIRTYTURBO Contributor

AREBEETHIRTYTURBO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

show us what your engine bay looks like...

I would say call up Plazmaman get a Pro Series kit and be done with it.

Like i said its for now, obviously if i had that sort of coin to piss off i wouldnt be asking you guys shit.

How many bends could and intercooler bend if an intercooler could bend bends?

A couple

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Ha. The science in that thread is a bit simplistic. It's great when someone has a little knowledge and then freely misuses it. For example, the quote "0.4 mach is when air becomes turbulent", is a load of shit. The velocity at which an airflow becomes turbulent depends on the velocity AND the characteristic diameter AND the density of the gas. As the diameter of the duct/wing/object is not used to calculate the Mach number, then the statement is false.

In industrial design we try to keep air/gas velocities in ducts down to <30 m/s, and often less. That is unless we have lots of free pressure available, in which case we may let it creep up. But the flip side of velocity is noise, and we also need to stay away from the erosional velocity. People likely don't care about that (noise and wear) in aftermarket automotive applications, so the point may be moot.

But a quick and dirty calculation for 400HP worth of air at 1 bar boost pressure and 50°C in duct temperature shows that a 2" pipe will have velocity <90 m/s, a 2.5 obviously a bit less and a 3" pipe is going to be going down into the <50 m/s region. That's a long way from the 0.4 Mach silliness that was posted in the linked thread. By the same token, there's nothing to say that 400HP at those air conditions is pushing the limits of a 2" pipe anyway. Or maybe it is. It will all depend on how much boost pressure you have to waste and how much consequent exhaust manifold pressure you can put up with - which is all specific to the engine and turbo combo that there is no blanket answer. The best bet would be to do some calculations for some actual engines that have been shown to hit the wall and have then had the pipes changed and shown an improvement. Any other calculations (like mine above and all the ones in the linked thread) are pure speculation and a waste of time.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...