Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have both turbos. The t04z on 25psi in an rb25 and and -5 on an rb26 28psi. Both standard head and cams. The -5 are more useable in 2 gear and it feels it has more torque from 4500-7000rpm. But the z from 5000rpm is alto more aggressive. I can't comment on gtrs but even getting the -5 set up properly on the gtr is abit of a pain.

Old Z with a newer style billet compressor with a bit of cleaning up comes on 300 or so earlier. Pretty much what a GTW does, yet people always claim more response, like 500 rpm, yet to see it though.

you talking about the 11 blade gtx style t04z wheel that every man and his dog is throwing into 3582's?

cheers

darren

you talking about the 11 blade gtx style t04z wheel that every man and his dog is throwing into 3582's?

cheers

darren

That's the one.66mm I think. Mate with a Barra has one with a bigger flapper and making 350 on 14 pounds. Response is nothing to get excited about for a 35, will see how it behaves with a valve spring change and more boost.

Dual Ball Bearing Garrett To4Z . 700-750HP flow potential.

Compressor wheel diameter is 84mm exd. / 66.7mm ind. (63trim) Compressor housing is .70 A/R has a 4" inlet and 2.5" outlet slip on connection.

T4 Turbine housing divided A/R .84 entry, all with standard 3" V-band discharge.

Turbine

-Wheel: 74.2mm w/ 76 trim

-T4 Divided Housing A/R .84

Compressor

-Wheel: 84.0mm exd./66.7mm ind w/ 63 trim

-Housing: 0.70 A/R

t04zcompress.gif

(707160-5) dash 5's stack up nicely against that compressor map maxing out at virtually the same numbers.

Lower half of the -5 Map looks better as it moves more air at a given pressure which helps with response but tapers off a bit earlier. 28b0d4b57b9b71c0e351d4118c7acc08.jpg

post-60000-14586376901249_thumb.jpg

Edited by mr skidz

(707160-5) dash 5's stack up nicely against that compressor map maxing out at virtually the same numbers.

Lower half of the -5 Map looks better as it moves more air at a given pressure which helps with response but tapers off a bit earlier. 28b0d4b57b9b71c0e351d4118c7acc08.jpg

Don't know mate, I just went for a drive in a few, liked it, bolted one up and thrash the fk out of it and drive it daily.

I am sure there are better set ups out there but I love the power delivery and the fact I drive around under boost all day in traffic and am just a gear change away from shits and giggles.

Once this one goes I might bolt up an old Borg Warner s300 -66, apparently they're good value with similar characteristics.

  • Like 1

70% vs 65% efficiency at the top end makes some difference.

It actually looks like it's better down low as well. Look at the 1.5 pressure ratio and 20lb/min for the z vs 10lb/min for the twins.

*Regarding the to4z map if that's what it is. it seems a bit hard to read but it looks like it says 65% efficiency at the top island of the compressor map, which also requires more pressure to get there.

Just doesn't seem as energy efficient is all I was saying.

but not bad it actually looks really good for an old school single, I like em.

*regarding the 10lb's/min -5 vs T04z 20lb's/min which is essentially 7psi boost and neither have cracked the wastegate at that pressure and they are both identical as the dash 5's are used as twins so it's 10lbs of air from each -5 totaling 20lbs/min.

Look at the popular wastegate pressure ratio of 2bar which is (1bar boost)

it shows the -5's out flowing the T04z by 10lbs/min.

I have had the pleasure of going in a fully built stroked ca18 180sx imported from Japan which had one on it and it was mega still one of the loudest n quickest cars I'd been in.

Edited by mr skidz

*Regarding the to4z map if that's what it is. it seems a bit hard to read but it looks like it says 65% efficiency at the top island of the compressor map, which also requires more pressure to get there.

Just doesn't seem as energy efficient is all I was saying.

but not bad it actually looks really good for an old school single, I like em.

*regarding the 10lb's/min -5 vs T04z 20lb's/min which is essentially 7psi boost and neither have cracked the wastegate at that pressure and they are both identical as the dash 5's are used as twins so it's 10lbs of air from each -5 totaling 20lbs/min.

Look at the popular wastegate pressure ratio of 2bar which is (1bar boost)

it shows the -5's out flowing the T04z by 10lbs/min.

I have had the pleasure of going in a fully built stroked ca18 180sx imported from Japan which had one on it and it was mega still one of the loudest n quickest cars I'd been in.

Have a look at the 70lb/min vs the 35lb/min.

At the 20lb/min to10lb/m vs 10lb/min to 5lb/min mark, there's definitely more "area" on the z.

Running 1 bar on either of turbos is a waste of time really.

Edited by s2d4

Your doubling the the potential lbs/min flow of the -5 Map aren't you?

So when I see 35lbs it's theoretically 70lbs.

Was just pointing out similarities in flow vs pressure ratios.

Edited by mr skidz

In theory, then in practise it's not when you've got two turbos pushing against each other and twin restrictions on the motor.

Like I said, for those flow values to be anywhere near true in practise you'll need twin cooler, twin plenum to fully separate everything.

question is a little off topic, GTRS bolt up on sr20's reason im asking is I have a set I want to sell :P to the sr20 guys

GTR'S are old, they will make 500kw but to do it right cost more than going single and your not getting anywhere near as a good result!

Off topic but the HKS T04Z is a good looking turbo even now. Far better than my ugly little EFR.

Yes. But I will wait for someone to say "oh they are old tech" without even quantifying (or perhaps understanding) what that means.

Yes. But I will wait for someone to say "oh they are old tech" without even quantifying (or perhaps understanding) what that means.

it is though... but it's solid tech that works better than any modern tech that runs in pairs.

post-16858-14587258821647_thumb.jpg

I don't think this turbo in twin form will perform well on any engine unless upwards of 3500cc as you are not able to cheat and run more boost to make the claimed 850-900 hp because it runs out of compressor at 2bar boost. On a 2.6 with let's say big cams revving to 8500rpm the -5 should make the same power as them at around 1.8 bar. A single turbo on the other hand like a t04z, gtx4088 or even gt4294r I think you are able to cheat because if you don't have massive cams or oversize valves to improve the Ve of the engine( which are essential to make the gtrs work well in an rb26/28/30) you can just run more boost to make the power.

That's the one.66mm I think. Mate with a Barra has one with a bigger flapper and making 350 on 14 pounds. Response is nothing to get excited about for a 35, will see how it behaves with a valve spring change and more boost.

Yeh.its a little turbine driving a big comp wheel.\

My mate has a 3582 on a vl in a 1.06 housing with that wheel. Makes 450rwkw through a loose converter on 30psi. Ran over 140mph.\

But his gate is plumbed back into restrictive 3 inch exhaust aswell.

On 30psi it made no more boost..unplugged gate and went straight to 40psi and maxed fuel pumps out coming on

Another has gone 145mph on 30-32psi with gates vented to atmo with that turbo

The comp wheels a decent thing..needs a gt37 turbine ot similiar. Peformanz turbos in perth selll a turbo with that comp wheel in a 3582 core and gt37 turbine..

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...