Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had this issue on and off for a while now, so I thought I would throw it out there to see if its a common Skyline issue or if its just my R33

Often when filling up with fuel I will have the nozzle click and stop flowing fuel when the tank is not full. I will then have to endure either constant clicking and stopping of fuel flow, or Ill have to fill the tank with such low fuel flow/pressure that it takes a long time to complete.

Does this happen to you? Anyone know how to fix it?

Seriously.....

I can fuel my R33 up, have it click off a few times, then pull the nozzle out nearly all the way and gently pull the trigger to slowly fill it till its just about overflowing. I don't do this often but have done it before

Have you tried changing the way you hold the nozzle in the filler?

The way that fuel guns work, your not going to come up with a fix that is going to be cheap and easy. Your going to need to pull the tank out and mess with the filler, and all to fuel your car up which I can do fine in my untouched R33. Makes no sense at all to me

yeah, without pulling it all apart or modifying it somehow you just live with it.. I would check that your breather hose to the filler neck and your charcoal filter are ok, but not much else u can do.

well actually.

depending when your car was complied (or if it was), you may have had an Oz spec fuel filler restrictor installed (well, or poorly depending on the shop). these can affect how it breathes when filling and therefore make the pump cut off early.

have a look at whether a restrictor was fitted, and consider removing it. I understand they are no longer required anyway

Hold the weight of the pump in your hand instead of resting it down on the car (so lift it up a little) and not all the way jammed in there. changes the angle the fuel goes in and doesn't trick the pump into thinking you're full.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...