Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

New to the forum after purchasing an R34 Gt-t.

Im hearing some clunking noises coming from the back, so upon further inspection I can see a fair bit of oil and grime primarily around the LHS flange coming out of the diff.

The teeth on the outside of the flange seem more worn down compared to the RHS.

How do I diagnose if I just have to replace the whole diff, the flange itself or even just seal?

Like I said there is a real solid clunk when taking corners, is at its worst at low speed and with a little on the throttle.

Could this mean a new diff would be in order?

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks

post-141974-0-64730900-1459389104_thumb.jpg

post-141974-0-31981700-1459389107_thumb.jpg

Managed to contact the owner before myself. He said it went through a few people before him but he didn't or hadn't heard of the diff being welded. From what Ive researched it could be a worn pinion gear. So anyway, found what seems to be a good one for cheap, housing and all. Will drop the old own out and open it up for reference sake.

So got a new diff, filled and ready to go in.

Getting the old one out is proving to be insanely difficult. I'm stuck on the 4 prop shaft bolts connecting up to the diff.

I've managed to get two off. Took about 1.5hrs on each. Literally tried everything. All soaked with WD for a good hour. Jack to apply force to a ring spanner was my best attempt but that didn't seem to get them to budge. The two that did come loose were done with a ring spanner and mallet. Tried for the third but gave up.

Probably the best bet now would be a cheap butane blow torch ?

Any ideas ?

Edited by iamme

Yeah I'll try that. Maybe jack it up higher this time so it has good clearance once on the ground

See if you can get some kind of drift on it and give it a few sharp blows to try to break the seal as it were.

They are 10mm bolts not 20mm, im sure there's no need to grind them off . Piggyback spanners or breaker bar and socket with pipe on it.

Mine are always tight but have always been able to get them. I know theres not alot of room there so need to jack the car up etc to gain the room

They are 10mm bolts not 20mm, im sure there's no need to grind them off . Piggyback spanners or breaker bar and socket with pipe on it.

Mine are always tight but have always been able to get them. I know theres not alot of room there so need to jack the car up etc to gain the room

What this bloke said - piggy back the spanners.

I struggled when I did my clutch - Piggy backed the spanners and had my brother and I both putting force on them which eventually broke them free.

Actually now i remember, i sacrificed a 14mm spanner for this job. Cut the open-end off leaving just the ring end and shaft, then slide a length of right-sized pipe over shaft to give you a breaker-bar spanner. I call it SST#438

Actually now i remember, i sacrificed a 14mm spanner for this job. Cut the open-end off leaving just the ring end and shaft, then slide a length of right-sized pipe over shaft to give you a breaker-bar spanner. I call it SST#420

Fixed it for you

Gave in. Got out the angle grinder and murdered those little buttholes.

Should have tried the breaker bar spanner. Exactly what I needed. Ah well.

Anyway. Now in search for two more bolts. Would the idea be to hit up a nuts and bolts place and match up the ones I still have?

Ideally use the oem ones from Nissan as you will note the thicker section of the bolt that has no thread, that joins the 2 flanges....but really any high-tensile M10 bolt of the right length with a 14mmm head will do. Bolt shop, or Bunnings will have them.

Headed up to bunnings and talked to a guy that used to work in the auto industry . Bunnings don't sell m10 bolts with 14mm heads. Not that he was aware of anyway.

Got some off a mate in the end.

New diff is in and it drives so much better. No clunk at all. It was really intense before. Will open it up when I get a chance and see what's going on.

  • 2 weeks later...

So opened it up and it looks like a 2way. Just not sure which one. Guess that would explain the clunk at low speeds around corners lol. As a daily and no engine mods I'm happy with viscous.

Anyone seen a similar two way?

sxoos4.jpg

14s6eo.jpg

301hl5z.jpg

Edited by iamme

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Order for the 2025 model R35 GT-R were accepted from 3rd March and 26th August the last order rolled off the production line at the Tochigi plant. Concerning the R35 GT-R replacement, current Nissan CEO Ivan Espinosa said "Nothing has been decided about the GT-R at this time, but we are well aware that everyone is waiting. The GT-R will evolve and reappear in the future. Please be patient until that day comes." Nissan has a lot of issues with management and finances so take Espinosa's words with a big grain of salt. From what discussions I've had and read about here in Japan, not a lot of people are confident about Nissan's future, let alone the next GT-R. 
    • Thanks. We getting some parts along too so he will be solving the speed issue like next week so i will let you know what he came up with.   
    • 21 is explicitly the coils detected as the issue. Is it guaranteed the actual issue? No. Just the ECU thinks it is. When you say rattling, describe it better, get an audio clip as best you can if possible.
    • Yea got me coppers. Bad news is I just put them in and the car still has the light and shakes. I also noticed I hear like rattling coming from the exhaust piping right under me. Does 21 also have a possibility of being O2 sensors?   So, coil packs are good, the harness is good, the MAF is working, and obviously the spark plugs just replaced and working.
    • Make sure you drop the GTT base tune back in, and set your injectors again, this will remove anything playing up with it you may have removed. Possibly lean there as it's normally a fast transient going THROUGH atmospheric pressure, and a turbo motor would then quickly go richer as boost builds. The only worry you MIGHT have is ignition timing, as the DE is higher compression than the DET from memory. But again, you're not in boost, so the DE motor will be a lot more forgiving at atmospheric.   Get Murray, Kinkstahs, and Johnny's input on tuning haltechs, those guys have played with tuning enough in the past to be able to help now you're past the trouble shooting stage of the MAP issue
×
×
  • Create New...