Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 R2000 Diff Issues. Small Or Big Fix? Not Sure.

iamme
 Share

Recommended Posts

iamme Apprentice

iamme

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

New to the forum after purchasing an R34 Gt-t.

Im hearing some clunking noises coming from the back, so upon further inspection I can see a fair bit of oil and grime primarily around the LHS flange coming out of the diff.

The teeth on the outside of the flange seem more worn down compared to the RHS.

How do I diagnose if I just have to replace the whole diff, the flange itself or even just seal?

Like I said there is a real solid clunk when taking corners, is at its worst at low speed and with a little on the throttle.

Could this mean a new diff would be in order?

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks

post-141974-0-64730900-1459389104_thumb.jpg

post-141974-0-31981700-1459389107_thumb.jpg

iamme Apprentice

iamme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Managed to contact the owner before myself. He said it went through a few people before him but he didn't or hadn't heard of the diff being welded. From what Ive researched it could be a worn pinion gear. So anyway, found what seems to be a good one for cheap, housing and all. Will drop the old own out and open it up for reference sake.

iamme Apprentice

iamme

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So got a new diff, filled and ready to go in.

Getting the old one out is proving to be insanely difficult. I'm stuck on the 4 prop shaft bolts connecting up to the diff.

I've managed to get two off. Took about 1.5hrs on each. Literally tried everything. All soaked with WD for a good hour. Jack to apply force to a ring spanner was my best attempt but that didn't seem to get them to budge. The two that did come loose were done with a ring spanner and mallet. Tried for the third but gave up.

Probably the best bet now would be a cheap butane blow torch ?

Any ideas ?

Edited by iamme
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Yeah I'll try that. Maybe jack it up higher this time so it has good clearance once on the ground

See if you can get some kind of drift on it and give it a few sharp blows to try to break the seal as it were.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

They are 10mm bolts not 20mm, im sure there's no need to grind them off . Piggyback spanners or breaker bar and socket with pipe on it.

Mine are always tight but have always been able to get them. I know theres not alot of room there so need to jack the car up etc to gain the room

kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
Posted

They are 10mm bolts not 20mm, im sure there's no need to grind them off . Piggyback spanners or breaker bar and socket with pipe on it.

Mine are always tight but have always been able to get them. I know theres not alot of room there so need to jack the car up etc to gain the room

What this bloke said - piggy back the spanners.

I struggled when I did my clutch - Piggy backed the spanners and had my brother and I both putting force on them which eventually broke them free.

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

Actually now i remember, i sacrificed a 14mm spanner for this job. Cut the open-end off leaving just the ring end and shaft, then slide a length of right-sized pipe over shaft to give you a breaker-bar spanner. I call it SST#438

kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
Posted

Actually now i remember, i sacrificed a 14mm spanner for this job. Cut the open-end off leaving just the ring end and shaft, then slide a length of right-sized pipe over shaft to give you a breaker-bar spanner. I call it SST#420

Fixed it for you

iamme Apprentice

iamme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gave in. Got out the angle grinder and murdered those little buttholes.

Should have tried the breaker bar spanner. Exactly what I needed. Ah well.

Anyway. Now in search for two more bolts. Would the idea be to hit up a nuts and bolts place and match up the ones I still have?

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

Ideally use the oem ones from Nissan as you will note the thicker section of the bolt that has no thread, that joins the 2 flanges....but really any high-tensile M10 bolt of the right length with a 14mmm head will do. Bolt shop, or Bunnings will have them.

iamme Apprentice

iamme

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Headed up to bunnings and talked to a guy that used to work in the auto industry . Bunnings don't sell m10 bolts with 14mm heads. Not that he was aware of anyway.

Got some off a mate in the end.

New diff is in and it drives so much better. No clunk at all. It was really intense before. Will open it up when I get a chance and see what's going on.

  • 2 weeks later...
iamme Apprentice

iamme

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So opened it up and it looks like a 2way. Just not sure which one. Guess that would explain the clunk at low speeds around corners lol. As a daily and no engine mods I'm happy with viscous.

Anyone seen a similar two way?

sxoos4.jpg

14s6eo.jpg

301hl5z.jpg

Edited by iamme

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Blue slip

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Kinkstah, no, coilovers aren't illegal, especially as a bolt straight in. The illegal part will be if they're altering suspension geometry beyond factory limits, or the ride height is not legal.   Sounds like the blue slipper just didn't want to deal with any later possibility of mods appearing on the car.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The problem has always been that coilovers are able to be adjusted, almost at any time, to be too low. Most people who ever get/got defected for/with coilovers were actually afoul of the minimum ride height rule. So the interpretation by cops/inspectors was always that it is pointless to allow numpty to raise his coilovers and get the car inspected/cleared, then just drop them back down again as soon as they get around the corner from the inspection station.  This led to the interpretation that they were illegal unless rendered such that they can't be adjusted (ie, collars welded to the body, that sort of thing). That may or may not have ever actually been the official line, but I'm pretty sure it's not considered to be a solution these days. Coilovers themselves fall under clause 3.2 b of that manual, because they are an "installation of a variable ride height system" and they don't fit the exclusions in that clause (which point to air springs and other pneumatic adjusters). So, as per previous statements, they require engineering cert to be legal on the road. Once you have such cert, provided you do not adjust them outside the height range covered by the cert, you are OK. Without, you have an unroadworthy vehicle.
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Here E10 is the cheapest fuel. And general advice is to not use it unless you hate your car. From what I remember it clogs up stuff in the fuel system or injectors?  With US/Canada being E10 across the board, does that mean that all fuel there is terrible?
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Sorry, are coilovers ACTUALLY ILLEGAL in NSW? They aren't in Vic, as long as they retain 70% of stock travel and the car is above 100mm off the ground. Does NSW actually have a law making coilovers actually illegal? RWC/Blue Slip/Engineering people not knowing the actual f**king laws boils my blood. Demand them to point to the documentation that states a coilover is illegal. (it may exist in NSW ) Edit: I checked. They aren't. https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-infosheet-light-vehicle-modifications-manual-suspension-and-ride-height.pdf
    • PranK
      Blue slip

      By PranK · Posted

×
×
  • Create New...