Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How the fuel gets into the cylinder, how the map sensor is seeing vacuum, how the engine managed to spin in the opposite direction to the starter motor,

From memory it cranked the right way then fired. God knows. Yavuz had no idea nor did Haltech. It did it more than once too. Thinking about it, I'd say it fired that early that the Piston wasn't far from BTDC, forcing the crank the other way. Trigger issue? Who knows. Pretty funny though!

I haven't had any issues with my PS2000, couldn't really recommend it more, though obviously there are others which have much the same features.

If you don't need it though, or aren't interested in it it isn't worth it. However I personally could never go back to an ECU without these features (power FC).

For example my car has been tuned many times. I recently dropped the boost to 18psi because reasons. Driving down a totally private road yesterday my car was at 18psi and as it turns out my AFR was 13.1:1.

If I had a power FC or even Nistune I would never have really known this.

My engine cut after 1s of this condition and because Haltech (and other better ECU's) automatically log this I was able to pull over and see why my engine just did that, and add fuel to the appropriate cells. Yes I have a wideband guage but I did not look at it. I also checked to see why the ECU was not automatically adding fuel to that area via the O2 controller. (can Nistune even do this?)

All of the above would just be ignored in a PowerFC world, and you'd be happily boosting away on 13-14AFR under 18psi and you would never, ever, ever notice until your engine decided to melt. Even after going to a tuner many times and being tuned many times on the dyno.

Am I paranoid a bit about this stuff? Yeah, maybe.

Maybe I've had more problems in the past than other people.

But getting a decent ECU, knowing how it (and your car) works to me is really a minimum requirement. I couldn't go back nor could I ever be happy not knowing, or recommending anything less. Anything less is "probably ok, maybe"

  • Like 1

I haven't had any issues with my PS2000, couldn't really recommend it more, though obviously there are others which have much the same features.If you don't need it though, or aren't interested in it it isn't worth it. However I personally could never go back to an ECU without these features (power FC).For example my car has been tuned many times. I recently dropped the boost to 18psi because reasons. Driving down a totally private road yesterday my car was at 18psi and as it turns out my AFR was 13.1:1.If I had a power FC or even Nistune I would never have really known this.My engine cut after 1s of this condition and because Haltech (and other better ECU's) automatically log this I was able to pull over and see why my engine just did that, and add fuel to the appropriate cells. Yes I have a wideband guage but I did not look at it. I also checked to see why the ECU was not automatically adding fuel to that area via the O2 controller. (can Nistune even do this?)All of the above would just be ignored in a PowerFC world, and you'd be happily boosting away on 13-14AFR under 18psi and you would never, ever, ever notice until your engine decided to melt. Even after going to a tuner many times and being tuned many times on the dyno.Am I paranoid a bit about this stuff? Yeah, maybe.Maybe I've had more problems in the past than other people.But getting a decent ECU, knowing how it (and your car) works to me is really a minimum requirement. I couldn't go back nor could I ever be happy not knowing, or recommending anything less. Anything less is "probably ok, maybe"

So what your saying is the Haltech leaned your engine out for no apparent reason then cut your engine, ok got it :thumbsup:

  • Like 1

Har har. :P

Cars are variable things and things change under the hood.

It's better to be able to see them before you feel the effects of something going wrong.

People only say "I don't need it, my Power FC is fine" until you do want a feature or your logs or safeguards catch something that is unmonitorable or unknowable with a more basic management system.

PowerFC can't do wideband 02 feedback

/thread

even the likes of a No Frills Adaptronic can do it, cut power on lean out once it can't correct enough...

Leaning out probably wasn't the ECU's fault, probably lazy fuel pump, faulty FPR, fuel slosh, clogged filter, etc.

Nah it obviously wasn't the ECU's fault. The car was tuned on 24psi.

But it's saved me in multiple cases, like say 18psi when the cells weren't so well mapped. I've since fixed boost leaks etc. This changes tune. I've changed exhausts. This may change the tune.

I've also had a clogged fuel filter setting off engine protection due to lean.

Point being was, car felt fine in all of these cases but wasn't. Infact, it was dangerously lean.

I'd never choose an ECU without that function for saving a couple hundred bucks.

Auto logging when the car does something weird is a god send.

The features only seem un-necessary until you benefit from them once, and then they become must-haves.

Consistency is the key!

Yeah it's nice when you see your AFRs spiking to 15-16 when it decides to advance the timing 4 degrees more than it should. I suppose that's why its so important to have AFR feedback on a Haltec, to hide all its stuff ups.

My haltech does all sorts of terrible things, like start first time everytime, drives better then it ever has, gets great fuel economy even on e85, makes good power reliably and has rock solid ignition timing due to the ability to run a crank trigger

Yep what a shit ecu

  • Like 2

My haltech does all sorts of terrible things, like start first time everytime, drives better then it ever has, gets great fuel economy even on e85, makes good power reliably and has rock solid ignition timing due to the ability to run a crank trigger

Yep what a shit ecu

My FC does all that except the trigger wheel, it doesn't have to use one, and 650km+ out of 60l and 11.1@123mph from stock turbos, what an absolute POS it is lol :P
  • Like 1

Yeah it's nice when you see your AFRs spiking to 15-16 when it decides to advance the timing 4 degrees more than it should. I suppose that's why its so important to have AFR feedback on a Haltec, to hide all its stuff ups.

Ignition timing should have no bearing on AFR from my (limited) understanding. Once the injector is closed AFR can't be altered yeah?

  • Like 1

Yeah it's nice when you see your AFRs spiking to 15-16 when it decides to advance the timing 4 degrees more than it should. I suppose that's why its so important to have AFR feedback on a Haltec, to hide all its stuff ups.

Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...