Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Couple questions in regards to modifications to an rb25det neo in an R34

If I decide on dropping in Tomei poncams, would I need to upgrade springs and retainers too?

Obviously it would be beneficial to do so however due to potential budget restrictions, it may not be an option

If the answer is yes, then I may turn my current internally gated Hypergear Atr43ss2 into external gate and be able to afford to do valve springs and retainers

If the answer is no, then I may use the funds to upgrade to an externally gated Atr45 instead

Any input, advice or feedback is appreciated

Thanks

Edited by Swole
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/464905-rb25det-neo-mod-questions/
Share on other sites

If the answer is yes, then I may turn my current internally gated Hypergear Atr43ss2 into external gate and be able to afford to do valve springs and retainers

I would think by the time you buy a gate and modify pipe work you won't "make" any cash

Which cams? How hard do you plan to spin the motor? What are you using it for?

Tomei 260 drop ins

Aiming for around 350rwkw mark on eflex

Using it mainly for street use

I would think by the time you buy a gate and modify pipe work you won't "make" any cash

True, however that would still cost less then buying an Atr45 with chra roller bearing + labour then to externally gate my current one :)

Well, the definition of "drop in" implies that you don't need to change anything else. But when you couple the increased mechanical loads from the cam AND the boost level you need to make 350rwkW, you do start to worry about valve float. As usual, YMMV. I'd suggest that the usual approach is to suck it and see. That doesn't work if total budget is a problem though. If it were me, I'd not change the cams at all, and save all the money.

Well, the definition of "drop in" implies that you don't need to change anything else. But when you couple the increased mechanical loads from the cam AND the boost level you need to make 350rwkW, you do start to worry about valve float. As usual, YMMV. I'd suggest that the usual approach is to suck it and see. That doesn't work if total budget is a problem though. If it were me, I'd not change the cams at all, and save all the money.

This is true

Thanks

A good stock Neo engine doesn't valve float we were running them toward 30psi and they are fine.

The Cams are not required on the Neo either. Stock cams on ATR45SAT is good good enough to support towards 400rwkws on E85 fuel.

For externally gated setup the ATR45SAT in Ceramic ball bearing setup will be making alot more power then the ss2, and specially if its an older version SS2 its not laggier. You can get some where towards 370rwkws using it internally gated. But it needs a big PWR cooler and at least 4 inches exhaust to get there.

A good stock Neo engine doesn't valve float we were running them toward 30psi and they are fine.

The Cams are not required on the Neo either. Stock cams on ATR45SAT is good good enough to support towards 400rwkws on E85 fuel.

For externally gated setup the ATR45SAT in Ceramic ball bearing setup will be making alot more power then the ss2, and specially if its an older version SS2 its not laggier. You can get some where towards 370rwkws using it internally gated. But it needs a big PWR cooler and at least 4 inches exhaust to get there.

I was going to PM you later down the track asking whether I would need to upgrade valve springs and retainers (or even head gasket) to make close to 400rwkw with an ATR45 roller bearing!

Cams has simply been a long term personal goal for me haha

Thanks

Edited by Swole

i have tomei type b cams in mine, as well as an older SS2 ex gate currently making 324kw on 16 psi and e70. with bigger injectors (maxed 725cc atm) and more boost mine would see 350kw+ easy on e85 :) just an indication of what you could do

Spend your money on turbo, wastegate, fmic, exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, AFM if necessary, (I presume you already have an aftermarket ecu or a Nistune chip) - these are the priorities - you can save up for cams later if you really want.

i have tomei type b cams in mine, as well as an older SS2 ex gate currently making 324kw on 16 psi and e70. with bigger injectors (maxed 725cc atm) and more boost mine would see 350kw+ easy on e85 :) just an indication of what you could do

That's awesome

Planning on upgrading the injectors?

If I can get away with it, I might go with an ATR45 with cams on flex/85 and aim close to 400rwkw

Spend your money on turbo, wastegate, fmic, exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, AFM if necessary, (I presume you already have an aftermarket ecu or a Nistune chip) - these are the priorities - you can save up for cams later if you really want.

Already got a complete Plazmaman set up including plenum, throttle and intercooler running a Haltech ps2000. Gotta upgrade the injectors and pump for 85 which I've already included in my budget :)

Edited by Swole

That's awesome

Planning on upgrading the injectors?

If I can get away with it, I might go with an ATR45 with cams on flex/85 and aim close to 400rwkw

Wont be upgrading injectors im happy with it for now... i have other plans for the car atm. Why not go a gtx35r and faceroll 400kw?

Wont be upgrading injectors im happy with it for now... i have other plans for the car atm. Why not go a gtx35r and faceroll 400kw?

Fair call

Correct me if I'm wrong cause I haven't looked much into it, but an ATR45 is cheaper and I'm staying low mount

ATR45 has also been proven to exceed 400rwkw, however that's with upgraded springs and pistons

I'll be consulting with Tao on whether I'd be able to get away without upgrading those to achieve close to, if not, 400 on e85 :)

For my 10c I believe there is type A and B Poncams for the Neo Turbo 25 and I would go for the type As or OE cams .

From memory the type As are about 252 duration and the type Bs 260 .

Where the Neo has it over the R33 25DET engine is a bit more lift and more aggressive lift ramps on the cams . This obviously didn't work with the R33s hydraulic buckets hence the solid ones and shim adjustment .

I believe Nissan was looking to pull the torque peak down the rev range on the GTt hence better valve train and different inlet manifold volume .

I think the longer period B cams would cost you low down part throttle torque and be less suited to the NEOs manifold .

One here with a Neo type Stag went B cams and regretted the decision later .

You call , mine would be standard or at most the shorter Poncams .

A .

For my 10c I believe there is type A and B Poncams for the Neo Turbo 25 and I would go for the type As or OE cams .

From memory the type As are about 252 duration and the type Bs 260 .

Where the Neo has it over the R33 25DET engine is a bit more lift and more aggressive lift ramps on the cams . This obviously didn't work with the R33s hydraulic buckets hence the solid ones and shim adjustment .

I believe Nissan was looking to pull the torque peak down the rev range on the GTt hence better valve train and different inlet manifold volume .

I think the longer period B cams would cost you low down part throttle torque and be less suited to the NEOs manifold .

One here with a Neo type Stag went B cams and regretted the decision later .

You call , mine would be standard or at most the shorter Poncams .

A .

Correct

However I do want the 260 duration

Dont these neo guys rev out higher than r33's, ive seen them go well over 7k which type b's would be in the zone. I got some for the 2530neo so hopefully they'll aid the flow

Mine does

Standard cams/springs/retainers good for over 400kw. Nissan did good, leave it standard.

This is what I'm thinking

What's wrong with stock cams?

Recently a R34 done by Chequered Tuning spun over 400kW using a Hypergear ATR45SAT turbo.

Nothing's wrong

Oo was that unopened head?

Cams have just been a goal for myself, really just after the lump/response shockingly haha

Main question is whether I'd need to also upgrade the springs/retainers/(headgasket) if I did cams and went for 400rwkw :P

Appreciate all the input though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...