Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was told by the engine builder/shop that reconditioned my neo head to use performance valve springs at a minimum with new retainers, said he's rebuild some engines cause the retainer cracked..

Thats interesting - cause i was looking at a set of the Tomei type A for rb25. So no good then?

Ive used the tomei type A for my poncams for years theve worked fine but yeah depends what cam your using.

Ive had performance springs fail once in an engine. SBF at 9300rpm. Thats about it. I personally run them in my tractor with 40psi and havnt had a drama. Its like every other item on the market. If wrongly installed or abused, failure is imminent

For everyone. Supertech don't do a spring for the neo.

Only way to use supertech valve springs is to change valves as well. Straight from Jim at the only supplier in Australia.

LOL. I hear you. Just like all the posts saying not to use Tomei/HKS/Jap when none offer NEO springs either :)

I am going Perforance Valve springs and retainers simply because I am hoping they aren't any worse than new std OE NEO RB25DET springs.

If I could afford Ferrea (Part no. S10078 dual springs and require their Ti retainers to be used) I would hand over the cash, but given my engine is only running small 252 Tomei cams the main reason for wanting springs is boost is expected to be up around 26-28psi and revs around 8,800-9,000rpm and guess std springs may not be the greatest at those revs, boost and expected power at that level

Been watching this thread. Been using stock neo springs in mates car, 260 ponnies, 32psi and no issue atm

but building a 25/30 so was just going to get the performance spring and retainer set .

Not sure what everyone is going on about in this thread but, i have only ever seen the performance springs and double ferreas for sale for neo's.

Ive used the preformance springs in sohc rb30s with no problems

cheers

darren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...