Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 

14 hours ago, GarettH said:

I have a koyo rad, factory shroud, new clutch fan and nismo engine mounts and needed no trimming.

It's only at high speed and high I have found...

Mine only starts rubbing at over 200km/hr

 

It's only at high speed and high I have found...

Mine only starts rubbing at over 200km/hr


Really thats strange, do you know where its rubbing? Ive definitely been over 200 a few times and have not located any markings yet. Do you have the 43mm rad or 53mm?
only if done right.. and 9/10 times it is done wrong...

Most owners just hard wire their fans OR use shitty fan controllers that turn off and on constantly like a strobe light.. followed by those who just hook it up to their OEM overheat fan relay/thermoswitch.

You need a proper fan controller either a standalone unit OR through your car's aftermarket ECU to set OFF and ON points followed by some form of hysteresis - only then would that be consider an appropriate installation.



I am installing thermo fans to my r34 gtt even tho I have read lots of accounts of failure I want to try it correctly for myself.. I am fitting 52?mm radiator with shroud and twin thermo fans. It will be controlled by haltec platinum pro.
I am also fitting a thermostatic oil cooler.
Can you clarify what you mean by 'some type of hysteresis'
Hysteresis.  Where the on point is at a higher temperature than the off point.  So it doesn't sit right at the "switch point" and go on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off.......


Uh yes of course this would be a given

So then the fans die and engine overheats? Should've stuck with stock setup [emoji14]



I'm not concerned with this, I have faith in modern electric motors, don't they become useless after ~60km/h road speed anyway? My only concern is if they will be able to pull enough air when stationary. Plus it's strictly weekend warrior so won't be sitting still for too long[emoji14]
5 hours ago, BlackBox said:


Uh yes of course this would be a given



I'm not concerned with this, I have faith in modern electric motors, don't they become useless after ~60km/h road speed anyway? My only concern is if they will be able to pull enough air when stationary. Plus it's strictly weekend warrior so won't be sitting still for too longemoji14.png

So why not just stay the factory setup? It works! Leave it alone!

  • 1 month later...

i would be using allot larger grommets than that

get them as close to the factory size as possible

my mate just went thro two big $ custom radiators because of electrolysis

SCA have on that revolving nut and bolt rack rubber grommets about the size of a 50c piece,
i would be using them at least

only a few dollars from memory

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...