Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR - Aftermarket Radiators and Factory Shorud

WantGTR

By WantGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

 

14 hours ago, GarettH said:

I have a koyo rad, factory shroud, new clutch fan and nismo engine mounts and needed no trimming.

It's only at high speed and high I have found...

Mine only starts rubbing at over 200km/hr

GarettH Enthusiast

GarettH

Posted
Posted
 

It's only at high speed and high I have found...

Mine only starts rubbing at over 200km/hr


Really thats strange, do you know where its rubbing? Ive definitely been over 200 a few times and have not located any markings yet. Do you have the 43mm rad or 53mm?
BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
Posted
only if done right.. and 9/10 times it is done wrong...

Most owners just hard wire their fans OR use shitty fan controllers that turn off and on constantly like a strobe light.. followed by those who just hook it up to their OEM overheat fan relay/thermoswitch.

You need a proper fan controller either a standalone unit OR through your car's aftermarket ECU to set OFF and ON points followed by some form of hysteresis - only then would that be consider an appropriate installation.



I am installing thermo fans to my r34 gtt even tho I have read lots of accounts of failure I want to try it correctly for myself.. I am fitting 52?mm radiator with shroud and twin thermo fans. It will be controlled by haltec platinum pro.
I am also fitting a thermostatic oil cooler.
Can you clarify what you mean by 'some type of hysteresis'
BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
Posted
Hysteresis.  Where the on point is at a higher temperature than the off point.  So it doesn't sit right at the "switch point" and go on-off-on-off-on-off-on-off.......


Uh yes of course this would be a given

So then the fans die and engine overheats? Should've stuck with stock setup [emoji14]



I'm not concerned with this, I have faith in modern electric motors, don't they become useless after ~60km/h road speed anyway? My only concern is if they will be able to pull enough air when stationary. Plus it's strictly weekend warrior so won't be sitting still for too long[emoji14]
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, BlackBox said:


Uh yes of course this would be a given



I'm not concerned with this, I have faith in modern electric motors, don't they become useless after ~60km/h road speed anyway? My only concern is if they will be able to pull enough air when stationary. Plus it's strictly weekend warrior so won't be sitting still for too longemoji14.png

So why not just stay the factory setup? It works! Leave it alone!

  • 1 month later...
GD51LA Mentor

GD51LA

Posted
Posted

i would be using allot larger grommets than that

get them as close to the factory size as possible

my mate just went thro two big $ custom radiators because of electrolysis

SCA have on that revolving nut and bolt rack rubber grommets about the size of a 50c piece,
i would be using them at least

only a few dollars from memory

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • aneesr34
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By aneesr34 · Posted

      Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      EFR7670 exhaust housing selection RB26

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • GTSBoy
      EFR7670 exhaust housing selection RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • r32-25t
      EFR7670 exhaust housing selection RB26

      By r32-25t · Posted

      1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...