Jump to content
SAU Community

My NM25 build


Pearcey
 Share

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, admS15 said:

I had blocked mine temporarily, it ran fine and dosed pretty damn good and costed zero. Ended up reverting to stock when the novelty wore off. bovs in general usually cause issues.

fixed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Consider a floating valve BOV if you're stock one is gone.

I found the Turbosmart Kompact completely the wrong choice for this engine.

We have an electronic throttle which operates slowly, meaning the bov needs to be super responsive to + and - pressures.

My car shuddered hugely on decel with the Kompact, as many others too.

Springs are too stiff and outlet orifice is too small.

Keep stock one unless you plan to run higher boost.

Just put in a manual boost-t and eliminate the factory solenoid bleed system to get a better response and a couple more psi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm interesting, looks like i'll be leaving the BOV situation for now until I pull the turbo out.

 

Anyways pulled my headlights apart yesterday and gave them a well needed polish and painted the chrome inserts, have to say i'm pretty happy with the outcome!

 

 

IMG_2879.JPGIMG_2924.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/18/2016 at 11:04 AM, Pearcey said:

Hmm interesting, looks like i'll be leaving the BOV situation for now until I pull the turbo out.

 

Anyways pulled my headlights apart yesterday and gave them a well needed polish and painted the chrome inserts, have to say i'm pretty happy with the outcome!

 

 

IMG_2879.JPGIMG_2924.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

Looks good, you baked the headlight?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey man as far as removing the turbo. Are you chasing more power? If not I would leave it as is. Mine has been making the whine noise for the 3 years I've had it and the 2 years the previous owner had it. It's still going strong with around 130k on the clock. There's guys pushing 200k and still going on factory turbo. If you are after more power, then get it out of there quick smart.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, admS15 said:

Hey man as far as removing the turbo. Are you chasing more power? If not I would leave it as is. Mine has been making the whine noise for the 3 years I've had it and the 2 years the previous owner had it. It's still going strong with around 130k on the clock. There's guys pushing 200k and still going on factory turbo. If you are after more power, then get it out of there quick smart.

Yep chasing more power :banana:, plus the dyson noise is starting to drive me nuts. Already spoken to hypergear and i'm pretty keen to get it done now its just a matter of finding the time to pull it and send it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, Pearcey said:

Yep chasing more power :banana:, plus the dyson noise is starting to drive me nuts. Already spoken to hypergear and i'm pretty keen to get it done now its just a matter of finding the time to pull it and send it off.

Didn't Steve tells you about Scotty Customs? Just another option with hi-flow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, West said:

Didn't Steve tells you about Scotty Customs? Just another option with hi-flow.

Yeah he did mention something about another bloke doing high flows, is there much difference from the hypergear? 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Pearcey said:

Yeah he did mention something about another bloke doing high flows, is there much difference from the hypergear? 

 

I'm not sure as i have never use either services. You can get more information about your Stag on Facebook as well, there are a few of us there, just search M35 Stagea. Most people prefer to answer questions on FB as it's easier for them.

I'm sure i will speak to Scott at Scotty Customs when i get hold of my Stag, need to upgrade the OEM radiator and maybe a few more things when i'm ready.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 21/09/2016 at 5:08 PM, Pearcey said:

Yeah he did mention something about another bloke doing high flows, is there much difference from the hypergear? 

 

Our Ceramic ball bearing system Vs traidional bush.

Easy installation working with OEM lines and restrictors Vs sump dropping and restrictor drilling.

326awkws vs 309awkws

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 23/09/2016 at 2:51 AM, hypergear said:

Our Ceramic ball bearing system Vs traidional bush.

Easy installation working with OEM lines and restrictors Vs sump dropping and restrictor drilling.

326awkws vs 309awkws

 

Will hopefully be sending you the turbo next week Tao.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a question with regards to R34 GTR guards. All the info here is quite old. Useful, but old. At what point does the bumper itself become a clearance issue with wide wheels on a R34 GTR, specifically the part I've drawn in red here: All of the info that people post about implies that 285 is as far as you'd go before scrubbing becomes an issue, but they speak of hitting the inner plastic liners, not the bumper itself. Just how wide could you go if you took the liners out? Has anyone done it? I have been messing with my own car and spacers and heavily cursed my lack of planning, but I might not feel so bad if there's actually no gains to be had by going a GTR guard and front bar combination for $5k+ of money I do not have after spending about that much already on my solution which now has problems. (Woo) At least I now know why GTR guards and bumpers flare out like this over their GTT lesser cousins. I feel that in 2024, someone has gone further and attempted to run 315's or somesuch on the front of a R34 GTR. If you have, please post. If you're tried and failed for some other reason definitely post so I feel better about my mistakes
    • Genuine URAS Type R front guards in FRP. These will fit a GTT. They will only fit a GTT. If you have a GT or GTT and want wider fenders with a Z tune look up top, this is what you want. You use this with a regular GTT fitment bar. Not a GTR bar. They fit GTT guard liners and plastics, not GTR items. So if you're reading this thinking "Ah! I have a GTT or GT and want wider front guards that bolt directly on, but do not want the hassle of changing my bonnet and bumper and plastics and undertrays or anything else, this is what you want. The fitment is annoyingly perfect. I really would rather someone pick these up in person and not ship them. SE Melb.
    • Why didn't you buy the one I originally linked in QLD which was about 18k and in massively better condition with about 30k of tastefulmods holyshitmygodjesuschristman.
    • hey mate so i was in a similar position needing something better than oem for track but also wanting it to look the part, i went for APG APG Performance Brakes they are a solid price and i have had no issues with any of the components from them. the rotors and pads can be swapped out for all the usual brands just ensure you are getting the right sizes. i have just a front kit on my car. i would recommend upgrading to a bigger master cylinder as they are a bigger calliper so you can actually notice some increased braking performance 
×
×
  • Create New...