Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 minutes ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

You would think that but it's not. It's a parallel thread, and it's not M10x1 because that's what I took a punt on and the thread is about half that size ?

Um.....female pipe threads (BSP, NPT) are always parallel. The taper goes on the male.

Pretty sure its metric, did it over Christmas. Maybe M8? Don't have the reference catalog here but it was pretty much the only option in metric for a -3 male fitting for that thread size.

Edit: well, for an 8374, maybe its different on the smaller ones?

 

I distinctly remember how odd it was that my USA designed turbo had metric threads and the Australian Designed Turbostmart wastegate had imperial threads.

There's not really any such thing as "metric pipe threads". When we're talking about screw in fittings, and elbows and Tees that go onto pipe, etc etc, there is really only 2 dominant threads. BSP and NPT. The Yanks, the oil & gas industry and a few others are stuck on NPT. The rest of the world pretty much uses BSP. The Europeans call BSP threads by other names though. If you see a German company describing a threaded port or stub on their equipment, they will call it G1/2" or G15 (same thing). And there are other variations on the theme.

M8 is a bolt thread specification. It is really not relevant to "plumbing" fittings. People don't use metric bolt thread forms for tapered male into female sealing threads. They may well use metric bolt thread forms on collars of fittings that use seats to seal (like Swagelok or other similar pneumatic or hydraulic fittings) but they are just as likely to be imperial/American or totally custom in those systems, seeing as they are usually proprietary anyway.

  • Like 1

Yes, and look at the conical seat on that port. It is clearly meant to work with a bespoke fitting that has that cone on it. Seems silly, when everybody else would just use a 1/8" NPT or BSP parallel in there, with a tapered fitting.

I mean, good on the yanks for doing something, anything, in metric. But dumbo points for using a metric bolt thread for a f**king plumbing fitting.

48 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

It's not that big of a deal really...

Well, it kinda is. They've used a thread that looks about the same as a 1/8" pipe thread, but isn't. Then you either have to use their fitting or go out of your way to get a fitting that has that thread on it, which has got to be about 100x more difficult than just getting something with a 1/8".

50 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

Conical seat would be for an o-ring I would have thought.

But then it wouldn't tighten up. You'd be relying on a threadlocking compound to stop the fitting backing out.

3 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

Why not? AN fitting ORB threads are parallel and they seem to be fine.

Because an o-ring is a cushion that prevents the male fitting from pulling up hard on the external seat of the connection, unless the o-ring is deformed beyond intended design in that conical seat.

That seat is not designed for an o-ring.

AN fittings do not look like that. Parallel threads are of course completely normal on collar type fluid couplings that have conical metal on metal seats. This is not the same situation.

Agree with what you're saying re the fact that metric pipe threads are not a thing, but in the end, it is a M8x1.0 thread. And Speedflow makes a fitting for it so it can't be that rare of a thing: https://www.redlineauto.com.au/p-2547-speedflow-349-04-m8-x-10-to-4-male.aspx

 

For what its worth Iv'e had one in there for a while now, leak tested to 30PSI no issues, doesn't seem to back out at all (steel fitting in aluminium probably helps there). If you're that worried put some sealant on there. 

How the actual f**k do brake fittings work!

Here is the short version. True pipe threads seal on the threads. Other applications use a standard thread then use a gasket/copper washer ect.

And then you can also seal on a tapered bit but thats another story.

The end of the brake pipe is flared. That forms the female part of the cone seat. The male part of that is either buried in the bottom of the threaded hole (say on a caliper, MC, prop valve) or in the other fitting, if is just some coupling fitting somewhere partway along a line.

The "nut" that is on the brake line has a male thread that screws into the female thread (on the caliper, etc) and pushes on the back side of the flared end of the pipe, pushing it against the male flare.

So, it is a tapered seal, as per your discarded throwaway line at the end of your post.

Simples, squeak.

Or were you being ironic?

Not unless it's bleeding boost or compressor stalls on throttle lift off...

My 7136 used to comp stall a lot, and I  don't have a VL commo, so I put the 50/50 kompact shorty on it with a lighter spring.

I'm not using it any more if anyone would like it. It's bronze now, not black tho... 

15 hours ago, Timmaz300 said:

Is there any reason to upgrade the factory recirculation valve for a Turbosmart recirculated or 50/50 valve on my 9274?

received_895708637612980.jpeg

What are the temperature ratings on the Festo pneumatic hose and fittings?  It looks nice and neat and definitely easy to install. But I'm a bit sceptical it would live long on the hotside there? ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...