Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The new genV turbosmart twin port is probably the way to go. It has a better lower seal and a universal joint to the wastegate actuator arm. I wasn't very impressed with the first two versions (non twin port and the first twin port) but the latest one should be good. Use a low pressure spring or it'll be too sensitive.

The e-iwg cost wasn't too bad (less than the turbosmart actually), but yes, you will have to adapt it to fit and have an ecu that can drive it.

Position data is nice.

Edited by taijohnsen
8 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

The e-iwg cost wasn't too bad (less than the turbosmart actually), but yes, you will have to adapt it to fit and have an ecu that can drive it.

Position data is nice.

I thought the supra parts were already a few hundred bucks alone?

Do you have a list of items that are needed for the e-iwg?

Can't seem to find anything useful with google.

The genV twin port is $500ish AUD and the std one is $300ish AUD. I managed to get the e-iwg landed from USA for $350 AUD.

A bit of 3D printing and a carton of beer sorted the rest.

More pics in my thread http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages/263854/354587.html

Hey Tai!

Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish.

Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there.

The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league.

Another question though:

With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max?

Thanks and have a nice weekend!

Now that my build is finished after 2 long years being off the road I can finally contribute to this thread with my EFR results.

EFR 8374 1.05 A/R

Racepace built RB28

9:5:1 compression ratio spool pistons

Nitto I beam rods

Spool billit 2.8 stroker crankshaft 

PRP engine brace

HKS step 2 valve springs

6 boost manifold 

Turbosmart 60mm wastegate

Nitto oil pump

Racepace custom 3.5” dump pipe & cat

Tomei extreme titanium cat back 

Plazmaman 100mm intercooler

PRP trigger kit

PRP R35 coil kit

Tomei cam gears 

Haltech elite 2500

Bosch 1650cc injectors with flex fuel

Nismo front LSD

Racepace transfer case upgrade

Plus many more mods

Made 504.9kw 25psi on E85

Couldn’t be anymore happier with the result and build. Turbo feels awesome and love the responsiveness. 

0B64DAA0-72F6-4EB5-B551-FDDCDFFC95C6.jpeg

C55780D3-3032-4D10-9AAE-1236B1B1442A.jpeg

  • Like 3
1 hour ago, burn4005 said:

Roller speed axis should be made illegal.

What gearbox, diff ratios, rims and tyres?

I agree..    based on my own car that would be boost in at around 4100rpm I think.

But why they don't use RPM is beyond me.

Gearbox stock, diff ratio stock, rims volk GT-C 19x10.5 pirelli p zero 275 and cams are stock atm because mine are on back order. Have a set of mines super shore pro camshafts just waiting till they arrive and will get them installed. Tune has been wound back to 460kw @ 23psi while the engine is being ran in and till the cams arrive.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/9/2021 at 8:44 AM, MotHot said:

Hey Tai!

Just finished reading your thread on soarercentral from start to finish.

Very nice build and a lot of cool selfmade stuff in there.

The electronic wastegate actuator is awesome, but setting it up + 3d printing parts for it is way out of my league.

Another question though:

With your latest dyno session, whats the turbo shaft speed that your speed sensor is reading at max?

Thanks and have a nice weekend!

Thanks MotHot,

It has been a long build, but I have enjoyed the journey for the most part :)

Sorry for the delayed response, but the tuner took a while to get back to me with the logs.

The internal power calcs of the EMtron say 350kw engine, this run was 350rwkw @ the wheels (roller)

turboRPM.png

01jzzdyno.JPG

Edited by taijohnsen
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/9/2021 at 3:34 PM, R32 TT said:

I agree..    based on my own car that would be boost in at around 4100rpm I think.

But why they don't use RPM is beyond me.

Because who gives a shit about rpm.. road speed is where it counts!!! :)

 

Lol, all you stroker big block RB boys would realise your better served by laggy RB20s that rev to 10,000rpm with 4.6 diff :)

 

 

  • Haha 3
  • Confused 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hello, could you guys help me choose between 8374 and 8474, both with 1.05 housings, for 2jz ge non vvti engine. Quick specs are 9.5CR, BC264 cams, sligthly ported head. The target is 650 to around 700whp with best spool and response and 7500 to maximum 7800rpm limit. Is the 8374 be enough or 8474 will be needed for those goals? Fuel will be E100. Thank you in advance!

Matchbot will tell you there is no way an 8374 should be on a 3.0L RB.   

That said, I ran mine happily for some years at sub 120krpm making 650-700hp at hubs and spinning to 7000-7500rpm on both 3.0 and now Nitto 3.2.  Intake temps were ok - but it didn't want to make any more power.  It has finally let go just two weekends ago.    We had recently added launch control which may or may not have contributed (or at least shortened its life).     Everything on Matchbot says its should be overspeeding, but I've got logs to show it wasn't (unless there is an issue with what/how we are reading) - so I am not sure how this correlates to Matchbot..  perhaps the default VE figures are different enough to affect it?  

I've also run an 8474 on same engine (3.2L, both 1.05 rear) and it definitely feels laggier than the 8374.  On a dyno plot its only about 200rpm later coming on, but in practice, on a rally sprint coming off 2nd gear corners, you notice the difference.  Also between gear transient response is dulled a bit.

8474 makes about 50hp at the hubs more on same boost (750hp at 23-26psi) , temps post turbo (pre intercooler) are only 10 degree cooler. And post cooler can't see a difference.  Definitely when in the mid-range revs and up you feel the extra legs it has.

So!  for me, on a 3.0-3.2L  I'd be going 8474 and altering gearing to suit what you're doing,  and keep it a bit further up the rev range.    

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...