Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Car stalling while driving with new turbo

hi all, 

i just replaced my turbo on my gtt from factory turbo to Garrett gt 30/76 internals on my factory housing. 

when i drive at a rpm over 3k and put it in neutral the revs will go all the way down till the engine stops.

does anyone have any idea why this could be ? 

thank you  

factory pipe work.. could be leak somewhere..

Are you running any wanky BOV? or is everything stock except the turbo?

Also it might be overboosting because the turbo has a larger actuator on it.. not ECU related.

2 hours ago, miskyline94 said:

It's a factory bov but it is blocked of to re-curc and I have a front mount intercooler other than that its stock

there's your problem :)

The pressure is also going through the air flow meter backwards. The ecu sees this as additional air flow and injects more fuel. On some cars with air flow meters this causes stalling problems on others just rich running, unless the ecu has been tuned for it. Try unblocking and see what happens. Im sure dosepipe will correct me if im wrong :banana:

  • Like 1

Also i might add, 

the reason i changed the turbo is because the factory one shit itself but when it went out there was a bit of oil around the intake hoses, so i was wondering if some of that oil would have gotten on the AFM. 

should i remove it and clean it with contact cleaner? @admS15 @Dose Pipe Sutututu

ok so i there is nothing the bov is doing to the stalling, 

but we did rasie the idle a tad so the car has stopped stalling and also must of fixed the over boosting problem. 

a new ECU is defs on my list but money wise it is not going to happen very soon. 

and whats a nistune board? easy install and pricey? @GTSBoy 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...