Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So in February I had my car tuned making around 280rwkw. The car drove fine maybe a little carp down low, which I thought was the vct plug needing replacing.

The car then began flashing the cel/knock light. Replaced the vct plug and took it back to get the tune looked at. I've been told the car can't handle timing above 10psi and 4 degrees of timing was taken out anywhere above 10psi.

IAT were mid to high 50. Don't know if that's an issue.

Car has

Hypergear atr43ss2

Top feed rail with 1000cc xspurt

Jjr return flow cooler

Haltec platinum pro

Any reasons why a car would be fine with the timing then after a few months hate it.

Tuner thinks the 98 down here is bad but I can't see why it would be that bad/different

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467658-car-wont-take-timing-with-out-knock/
Share on other sites

How big is your exhaust? Possibly collapsed CAT? Can you check pressure or temps pre and after intercooler?

Just saw you have a Venom cat so probably not that.

Same tuner as February?

Stao might be able to weigh in here, but I believe he was having issues with JJR Belmouth dump pupes at one stage. The flange doesnt quite match up to the gasket/turbo and you need to grind out the dump a bit to make it match.

I never had this issue but I believe that it was a problem

Do you know how much timing is actually in the MAP up were the problem area is?

Ok I don't think I had the issue as I would have noticed when I went to put the gasket on.
No I don't know how much timing is in there before after the change. I may have to see if I can find out tomorrow.

If everything was working fine for a while then it changed without notice then my bet is fuel starvation, time to check the filter, FPR, pump etc

Pump is my guess, its not delivering enough when you boost!

He did mention he took a bit of fuel out of the map as the afr was a touch rich. Would that rule out the fuel system? I didn't ask either but a pressure gauge in the fuel line would tell whether there was an issue in the fuel system wouldn't it?

When it changes from something that used to work, then it is not the fundamental architecture of the car.  If it NEVER took timing then we'd go looking at the return flow cooler, the exhaust, etc etc.  So we look to things that can change.  As has been mentioned already, cat is a possibility.  After that it's fuel system, as has also been said.  What may be happening is something unexpected like just one dirty/part blocked injector.  If you get one cylinder running a bit lean it will knock and the others won't, and the mixtures may not show up too badly because 5/6 of the engine is working right.  Those Bosch injectors may or may not have the little inlet filters in them.  They can catch crap and bock really quick.

  • Like 1
13 hours ago, MatthewT85 said:

Any reasons why a car would be fine with the timing then after a few months hate it.

Tuner thinks the 98 down here is bad but I can't see why it would be that bad/different

 

The fact the tune hadn't gone leaner would suggest it's less likely to be a fuel delivery issue which is one of the causes for this kind of thing which I've seen.  To cause THAT much sensitivity at that low boost and requested timing would need to be quite the fuelling issue, not something that would be too subtle to pick up even if it was only one cylinder - imho.

The other thing (and probably more common cause for this type of stuff) is triggering issues causing the effective timing to fly way off requested timing.   Either make sure the wiring to the CAS is good, or if you can find someone with the same type of CAS then maybe try swapping them over - or anything else you have the tech to do to rule that out.

Edited by Lithium
2 hours ago, Lithium said:

To cause THAT much sensitivity at that low boost and requested timing would need to be quite the fuelling issue, 

 

sorry does that mean it would be pretty obvious if there was a problem with fuel system and its most likely not the issue?

On 11/13/2016 at 0:35 AM, hypergear said:

I'm leaning towards to what the Afr gauge say as well.

do you mean if the afr was fine or rich then there isnt an issue with fuel system(injectors, FPR ect)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...