Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Looking good.

His wiring guy probably needs to learn how to use a ruler or go to Specsavers ??

Never ending saga with this car. Decided to get a decent coil kit, and surprise doesn't fit like a decent kit lol 

1 hour ago, GTofuS-T said:

Looking at the first pic again, what was the actual issue? it all looks like it's plugged in and nice and neat compared to the latest pic...

the last coil pack has been turned around so it clears the covers, however you can see the last connector is too short hence the loom is compressed and sits stupid.

So did some last minute road tuning during the week and poured in E85 (because no idea how much timing the motor can take safely so used knock suppression fuel lol) and then took the shit box to a skid pad. 

LOL... Was interesting to say, things to note:

  • a car setup for the track setup doesn't work on a skid pan very well :D 
  • a big laggy turbo isn't great on a skid pan, comes on you spin out, clutch kick and you bog
  • can't slide around at 4k rpm in 2nd, it bogs, rev it harder and spins out once the turbo comes on (lag life)
  • semi slick tires on the rear not a great idea either (borrowed some drift tyres afterwards)

I'll upload some in car footage soon once. I pull I pull it down from my VIRB.

Even the seasoned drifters had a go and couldn't slide it properly in 2nd, mainly slid around in 1st lolol

IMG_20181122_203912.thumb.jpg.b04d51fddda275c3b56aa0edbe1782a5.jpg

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, BakemonoRicer said:

Time for an EFR mate

More like time for a smaller sensible sized turbo if I want to play in this sport, but my heart lies in circuit racing, powercruise and roll racing.

Anyhow, not bad for a shake down. A few things I've noticed after yesterday:

  • I didn't seal the sump properly, there's a weep at the front (using a RWD sump on a AWD motor, doesn't seal well)
  • turbo is too big for drifting
  • should have bought a M235i BMW or a 335i BMW lol
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...