Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ended up getting PL Fabrications to modify the 350GT pedal as I wasn't too happy with the pedal position from my quick and dirty vice and mallet approach.

Closer to OEM positioning now 😁

Subframe weld in plates, bushes, diff bushes and LCA bushes came today too. Whole subframe coming out soon for a big refresh and bracing. No traction excuses here! Close to 500kW and hooking up is my plan 🚤

IMG-20211117-WA0008.jpg

IMG-20211117-WA0009.jpg

  • Like 3

I did the whole subframe and reinforcement and replace all bushes.

It didn't help traction, if anything it was worse (stiffer everything). And I have half that power :P

  • Haha 1

Well to be fair, mine has fractures where the factory welds are so getting even more power it's probably wise to strengthen it 🤓

It does make the rear end stiffer, as does solid bushings etc, but as part of this job you would tuck the subframe up into the car more and adjust the angle of the whole thing to improve roll centre and anti-squat geometry.

Silvia was a lot more planted in the rear after I did that (but with very little power, so we'll see what I think with new engine). 

 

The big change honestly for me was all the new bushes. I didn't only do the subframe, I did every single bush in every location that whiteline or superpro offer. This was an expensive undertaking but man the car drives like it's new.

It's not hyperbole, it drives like it is a new vehicle. Is it better performing? Lol not really probably, but does it provide enjoyment that your 20+ year old car drives like it is factory fresh? Yes it provides enjoyment thus I'll put the 'worth it' stamp on it.

  • Like 1
On 17/11/2021 at 11:46 PM, admS15 said:

500KW you know what that means. Time for samsonas. 

LOL... well when the box does go BANG, I might look at either a DCT or ZF. I prefer the ZF approach as it seems more nicer to drive, and a bit more accessible (replaceable each time a box grenades).

 

@KinkstaahI'm probably heading down the same path, if the OEM bush hasn't been replaced (yet) it will end up being some form of new arm. Rear end already has Hardrace camber arms, traction arms and tie rod arms/ends (HICAS deleted). Front to rear all ball joints have been replaced too.

Front wise, all I need to do now is replace the front lower control arm bushes and install an adjustable upper control arm and it should be sweet!

  • Like 1
On 17/11/2021 at 9:48 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Close to 500kW and hooking up is my plan

hmm, in that order? I thought you were married? :P

ZF for surrree I assume they are easier/cheaper to find.

* edit * so i replaced the air filter in my hatch with a standard Mann one. Now the B48 doses slightly... I'm getting bad ideas.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
On 18/11/2021 at 12:48 PM, niZmO_Man said:

hmm, in that order? I thought you were married? :P

Hooking up in a non homo way :D 

  • Haha 1

Fan mounting solution, no more straps through core shit. And the OEM condenser/overheat fan is too thick and doesn't flow much air so was removed yonks ago.

Mock up fan used, a Davies Craig 12" in the way.

IMG-20211118-WA0004.thumb.jpg.f40f75947ad581b7a12c2c19244b48c3.jpg

IMG-20211118-WA0006.thumb.jpg.9eb22dd3f58c1ae1c366fb36bd49982f.jpg

IMG-20211118-WA0002.thumb.jpg.1b98c27fa0c0c3620380565f7e3fabce.jpg

Catch can time, needed the cnuto to be big. What PL Fab came up with was about 5.2L, it will be drained back to the sump with a ball valve too. Street duties no drain, track work will drain. New washer bottle will also be tucked on the side where the OEM coolant bottle was.

IMG-20211119-WA0009.thumb.jpg.26cdf4a31375e555701605d41466fe2b.jpg

IMG-20211119-WA0012.thumb.jpg.a2bc114ed32791f58bba66d0ad61f0b3.jpg

IMG-20211119-WA0020.thumb.jpg.49d2be867f0123ce7c30888bbffeb5ff.jpg

Fuark I feel poor looking at this.

  • Like 6

Unfinished state because some shop I ordered fittings sent my fabricator the wrong things.

Small delay but what's a day or two in comparison to a 11 months of a non functional car 😂

Side box thingy is the new washer bottle.

At some stage will have a filter element shoved in there (yes I'm going to the dark side, no more plumbed back catch, although it shouldn't be too hard in future, just will look aids with a hose across the motor).

IMG-20211122-WA0004.thumb.jpg.81ae0f081976ab7709c5300012f4395f.jpg

IMG-20211122-WA0008.thumb.jpg.709922c6a63cadad476b171e37031308.jpg

 

  • Like 1
On 23/11/2021 at 7:35 AM, ActionDan said:

Did you did the clutch fan? 

I thought consensus was it was very difficult to get anything to cool as well? 

Still have the clutch fan, and OEM shroud :) 

That fan is the A/C condenser / overheat fan.

  • Like 1

Now with fittings, also forgot to mention the oil filter block has been relocated and a new bracket made. Once everything is complete, it will be powder coated black.

I'm going the OEM looking theme, raw plenum but with black pipe work and black other things. Keeps it OEM+++++++++ if you know what I mean.

image.thumb.png.55f039dfc00f53c536da76b8f1cf6858.png

  • Like 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...