Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

The rs3s also dont make a lot of road noise which is good.

Hardsteppa, i will check out the RSRR next time i need a new set of tyres. Thanks

I'd go a ride in a car with RSR/RSRR before deciding, from all I've read they're cheap and stick well but very noisy. Some have compared the noise to the KU36, which I run, and that's certainly a noisy tyre.

RS3's are meant to have a good balance between price/grip/wear/noise.

i run RSR on the GTR and would never complain about road noise... They have a slight hum but you don't really notice it after a while. And that is even with a relatively quiet exhaust. 

  • 1 month later...

it is indeed.

had Rs3's for a few months and yeah they're not bad, but...ad08r's now on all four wheels and wow..I can honestly say, never experienced anything like it. Best tyre I've ever used.

I've had ad08r on my car for a while now. Done a few track days on them and driven daily, they still have 85% + tread and grip the same as when new. Compared to cheap motorsport Street tyres, rsr, 123s etc. These actually last and it will be a long time before you see their performance drop off. Easily the best road tyre I have used that can handle and work well on the track (never used rs3 to compare though). I've recently been using A050 semis for my last 2 track days and have only managed to go 1 second quicker. If I don't end up going at least another sec quicker, I'll be going back to ad08r.

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, -S- said:

Can anyone comment on re71r ? Will these tyres be a waste if used for street only? I think these are on par with the ad08r ?

The new re71r's are amazing.  I was strongly debating mounting a set but a great deal came up that I couldn't pass on.  They are hugely popular in auto cross in the states.  If you drive spiritedly, you would enjoy the extra grip but I doubt you would get anywhere close to their limit on the street.  I haven't even hit the limit on my 003's.  In the end, they're one of the best street tires you're going to find, but to determine if they are worth it to you would be dependent on your driving style.

I initially wanted re003 as i think the re003 would last longer than the re71r... plus maybe the re003 would be better on the wet too compared to the re71r... then again i think the tread wear rating for both are 200 and 210 respectively so not much difference. (I could be wrong) but thanks for the feedback! Might really look into it. ..

 

2 hours ago, -S- said:

I initially wanted re003 as i think the re003 would last longer than the re71r... plus maybe the re003 would be better on the wet too compared to the re71r... then again i think the tread wear rating for both are 200 and 210 respectively so not much difference. (I could be wrong) but thanks for the feedback! Might really look into it. ..

If the RE71R is a rave-worthy tyre, then the RE003 is a long way from that.  I put them on my car.  Previously having used AD08Rs and before that various KU36s etc.  The RE003 has nowhere near as much dry grip as the AD08R, so should be at least as far behind the RE71R.  The RE003 is pretty good in the wet, no argument.  The life expectancy looks to be pretty reasonable.  I'm going to get a lot more life out of them than the AD08Rs, which is the main reason I decided to try them.

FWIW, I'd probably use the RE003 again, even with lower grip levels.  They're still a pretty good tyre.

ok i'm revising my vote. AD08's are great, and hopefully they should last a while, but, RSRR's are the best (grippiest dry, and I also found them fine in the wet)  tyre I've used. Don't last long, but, don't cost that much either.

  • Like 1

Don't slap me around here but I'm running NS2R's by Nankang.

Semi Slicks very good in the dry and in the wet I had traction in 1st my old Bridgestone R002's didn't.

Not saying the best tyre but pretty good so far.

Have 1000km on them but that's first review.

 

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...