Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oil - RB26

Hi Guys,

After a confusing couple months as a new GTR owner, trying to seek information on the best oil to use for daily (and occasional spirited) driving on a stock as a rock rb26, i ended up with the biggest headf**k of the century. 

Basically this is what i got:

Reputable tuner recommendations: Castrol Edge 10w-60
Reputable workshops: Motul x8100 or H-tech 10w-40 (or if you can afford it Nismo oil)
Nissan track enthusiasts: Motul 300v 10w 40 
Autobarn: Motul 10w-40, castrol edge 10w-60, Penrite 15w-50 racing
SAU Forums: All of the above + penrite hpr, royal purple, redline etc.... (keep in mind some of these topics were from 10+ years ago, im sure there have been advancements since then)

So i decided to do my own investegation and research on the oils and how they behave in my car. 

Firstly i eliminated the motul 300v/nismo oils from the list as it would have limited return on investment, especially if you change your oils every 2500-5000ks, in addition the 300v oils do not have the proper detergents for daily driving, From what i can see i believe the 300v is engineered for track use only.

I decided to try 3 most commonly recommended oils: Castrol edge 10w-60, Motul x8100 and Penrite 15 racing. All 3 oils possess marginal differences in terms of lubrication qualities, espeically with daily driving. Things i tested was oil pressure (normal and spirited driving), oil temperature (25 degree day), engine noise, oil burned.

Here are the results so far:

Motul x8100 10w-40: 
Oil temp: 79 degrees normal driving minimal traffic
Oil pressure: 2.2kg idle, 4kg @ crusing speeds 
engine noise (once warmed up): ?
Oil burned(end of 5000ks service): None 

Castrol edge 10w-60
Oil temp: 81 degrees normal driving 
Oil presusre: Same as above
Engine noise: Quieter lifter noise than motul - Viscosity or forumla? 
Oil burned: None

Penrite 15w-50 racing
Oil temp: 81 degrees
Oil pressure: Same as above
Engine Noise: same as Motul
Oil burned: None. 

Fuel economy was the same across all oils. I tried keep the tests as consistent as possible, obviously its not the most reliable of tests but it can be used as a good initial reference to newbie GTR owners like myself .. One thing i found strange was that the oil pressure was the same across all brands and viscosity, unless theres some oil pressure regulator system im unaware of ,it is puzzling.. That being said by the end of it, i came to the conclusion that all 3 are good as they provide similar results. I have kept the bottle of the oils i have tested and will probably get some samples professionally tested and post them here to see which oil would be best suited for a rb26. 

Edited by Deza3000
Grammar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/
Share on other sites

There's plenty of information in the current oils thread if you haven't already had a read.

My thoughts are that you can use any group IV oil and buy whichever is on special as some can be nearly double the cost (Motul vs Castrol etc)... I'm skeptical that you would find a major difference between any of the big brands in terms of wear/performance. Fuel economy is going to be similar with most oils, it's not a factor even worth considering as the improvement will be 2-3% at best. 

In saying that, I wouldn't mind seeing the tests. But what would you use as an indicator for the 'best' oil?

Edited by owen1r
  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809184
Share on other sites

Yep read the forums, everyone has their own opinions and different modifications (i.e. built motor) done to their car, which led me to believe that there is a reason they chose a particular oil brand for their car. That being said, i agree it was all the same anyway. 

I used the term "best" very loosely, coming from an evo, most drivers use similar spec oil (10w-40 for street, 50 weight for track), where as the GTR, oil recommendations were very broad, and reading up on oil starvation issues i was getting rather paranoid as to whether i chose the right oil for my car, hence why i went my own way and tested the top 3 recommended oil. Seeing as castrol edge 10w-60 is always on sale, ill probably just opt for that from now on. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809190
Share on other sites

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809361
Share on other sites

I covered the range of scenarios with running Penrite Premium 5 (5W-60) muhuhahaha. But that oil harder to find these days.

I also ran Racing 10 (10W-40), which overheated (twice) on the track. Oil held pressure fine the whole time, so I use Racing 10 now on my Subaru as well (buy a few bottles when on special).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809367
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

Got those oil analysis results by any chance? Wouldn't mind a look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809389
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, owen1r said:

Got those oil analysis results by any chance? Wouldn't mind a look.

This is the only one I can find ATM. When they email them to me I ring them back to get them to explain them to me.

Oil Test 2011.09.28 1000km.PDF

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809520
Share on other sites

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

Same here but i do mine at 10k ish instead of the 3-5 k change. . And that's also on semi synthetic and not fully :)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809557
Share on other sites

Dessa.
Re your topic on best oil for gtr.
I heve been using nulon ow_40 engine oil in my gtr for some years.found it to be an excellent oil.. no need to top up oil in car. Change oil every 5000 ks
Oil pressure remains constant
Would highly recommend
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G928I using SAU Community mobile app

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809632
Share on other sites

On 2/6/2017 at 10:50 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

I use Motul 300V and unlike apparently most of you I change it after 20,000km (including track days). I have sent samples for oil analysis and the results have suggested there is no reason to change it more often.

I like that you dont throw away expensive oil that's in good condition. There should be more of this good sense.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809778
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, MrStabby said:

I like that you dont throw away expensive oil that's in good condition. There should be more of this good sense.

yes, but "if in doubt, throw it out!"

without doing an oil analysis, it's just guessing. While I appreciate OP's effort to bring some science through looking at oil temp, pressure and lost oil, that is really only scratching the surface. On the other hand, an oil analysis is a hell of a lot cheaper than an unnecessary change of these expensive oils.

BTW, for road use....use anything and change it often. No point spending $100 on oil changes when it's not getting tested at all.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468940-oil-rb26/#findComment-7809782
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...