Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

Well seems my car is about on par with what everyone else is seeing so fair enough. Will just have to run 98 for the longer cruises. 

I'll just have to put a big fuel cell in the boot for some extra capacity lol

I used 50L on Saturday on 98 (150kms)....

Used a lot of 3rd gear (5-6K rpm up and over the hill and back)...

1 minute ago, ActionDan said:

Really? that's way more than I expected? That would be about what I used? 

Yep - I filled it with Shell 98 on the way out  and less than 1/8th of a tank left.  Haven't refilled to verify- but given it takes a bit over 60L - 50L is what I would expect.

I was probably working harder in the rev range to keep up....

My 25det neo with ~380 kw to wheel

Driving from perth to albany, i got about 450 km to a tank, on the light, maybe could have squeezed another 10 or so ks out of it.

No narrowband or wideband hooked into ecu/tune.

I think thats pretty good haha.

Bigger turbo with generally softer response sub 3000rpm and less restrictive turbine can all contribute to fairly respectable fuel consumption in those conditions, for sure.  I agree with Jared, pretty good result when you think what it does when the taps are opened.

4 hours ago, jay-rod said:

My 25det neo with ~380 kw to wheel

Driving from perth to albany, i got about 450 km to a tank, on the light, maybe could have squeezed another 10 or so ks out of it.

No narrowband or wideband hooked into ecu/tune.

I think thats pretty good haha.

was suprised to see Albany had E85. was expecting you guys to bring 20 jerry can each but was suprisingly few there.Now just need it in Bunbury!!

15 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Interesting. I've just been putting straight United Race Blend in it, though I notice the sensor never reads above 80% despite my testing showing 90+ with the basic water/shake in tube tester. 

Same, sensor tends to read around 79-80% (genuine gm continental). Only ever diluted it with 98 once, took ages to get back up to 79-80%

Yeah, if you run flex then it's really hard to get up to >80% if you aren't using straight ethanol - which means that it's also not too hard to keep it floating around 50-60% if you occasionally top up with a bit of petrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...