Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Budget CA S13 Track Car

Moving my build thread from NS over to hear as NS seems pretty dead these days. 

Had the car for quite a few years now, has sat dormant for the last 18mths because I bought my 34 and poured all my time and money into that

 

Current mods/specs.

 

1989 CA18DET 5spd in secy two tone. 

146ks on a stock and original bottom end fresh head gasket and ARP studs.

 

Engine/Driveline

GT2560/T28 BB on 17psi/18spi - 198rwkw

3" Turbo Back Exhaust with de-cat

Greddy intercooler.

Catch Can and Morosso Crankcase evac kit. 

Turbo Tech Boost Tap - The original and still the best. 

Adjustable Wastegate Actuator

R33 BOV - plumbed back.

Grex Oil Filter Relocation Kit

BTR Oil Cooler Thermostat

JJR Oil Cooler

Apexi SAFC V2

Apexi SITC

AEM Wideband Air Fuel Sensor and Gauge

RX7 460cc Injectors.

Surge Tank Setup Walbro 400lph lift pump, Walbro 255lph main pump. Aeroflow fittings and hose.

Alloy Radiator

"Custom" Semi Solid Engine Mounts.

CA18DET Exhaust Cam on the intake side and Adjustable Cam Gears

Xtreme HD Organic Clutch.

S15 helical diff centre with original crown and pinion to retain better ratio - Solid bushes.

 

Brakes

Braided lines all round.

S15 Front Calipers/R33 Rear calipers (no handbrake anymore)

Ventilated and Slotted Rotors

TRW Pads all round

R32 GT-R Master Cylinder

R33 Brake Booster

DIY Brake ducts front and rear. 

 

Suspension

BC BR Coilovers

S15 Power Steering Rack

GKtech high misalignment tie rod ends. 

Nagisa Auto roll centre adjusters

Cusco castor arms.

R32 FLCA's

S15 RLCA's

Front Strut Brace

ISC Rear Camber Arms

GKTech Rear Toe Arms.

S14 subframe with reinforcement plates

Solid subframe bushes.

Whiteline adjustable front swaybar. 

R32 GTR rear swaybar. 

 

Other/Rice

C-West Twin Blade Adustable rear spoiler – alloy mounts under boot skin for support.

Dry Cell Mounted in Boot with Battery Isolater/Kill Switch cable up front + remote pull.

Aftermarket Steering Wheel

D1 Quick Release Hub

Momo Gear Knob

Momo Pedals

Auto Guage Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Guages

Velo Podium FRP Race Seat with Velo Harness and side mounts.

Custom Seat Frame, lowered for roof clearance.

Pro Fab Half Cage (dealing with Brad was fun...)

17x8 and 17x9 Volk(Rays) Rims. Federal RS-R 235s

R32 GT-R Grill

Hektic body kit.

Semi stripped interior, no AC etc.

big dollar tow strap

DIY Front Splitter

Soon to be rear diffuser.

 

Currently finishing off the front end suspension work/reassembly Getting some new front end links, changing out GTR rear swaybar for standard s14, car needs to go off to have some exhaust fab done (new hangers etc) then put it all back together and drive it for the first time in like 2 yrs... 

I pulled it off the road as the last out it was a realy handful to drive (with the new swaybars) and was torching the outside of the tyres. 

Full history/build is here.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=533091&st=0

 

 

10353257_10152148690754372_8770517064185537577_o.jpg

10699709_10153288426534838_5124629831311483969_o.jpg

Cam.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469678-s13-sprinttime-attack-style-build/
Share on other sites

And this was its last outing... 

As you can see it's very unsettled, bouncing through corners and being nasty on tyres. 

The changes mad prior to that day were swaybars. 

If, after all the above changes, subframe, roll centre adjusters etc, it still sucks I might just go back to stock swaybar up front also like Josh at MCA recommended (picking up an S14 rear bar tonight). 
 

 

 

Edited by ActionDan

Whiteline camber bolts on the way, have ,axed out strut tops at around -2.5 up front and wanted a little extra. 

This part pretty much fits all Nissan's

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA414

Get them cheaper on eBay. 

Picked up what I think is an S14 rear sway bar last night, certainly different to my rear sway bar. 

Sourcing some front end links now.

You definately need to get the swaybar balance between fr and rear right
My r33 was very twichy once i installed a whiteline rear swaybar 22mm fixed
felt sketchy taking corners fast but definately reduced body roll and felt tighter
Removed it and back for the std item now as it feels more balaced and easier to control drifting
You should have just got a matching whiteline swaybar for the rear
How thick is your fr swaybar and adj?
Too thick and stiff swaybar up fr induces understeer
Too thick and stiff rear swaybar induces oversteer

Yeah I know, I may just end up with stock bars and new bushes and links yet. Front bar is whiteline adjustable, I think they're 27mm? It's on the softest setting. 

Waiting on GKtech to advise when their end links are back in stock as their gear tends to be fine and well priced. Any issuses with Hard Race items? 

These arrived. 


 

20170322_105252.jpg

Have no idea how the S chassis goes with rear sway bars but my Z cars have always run with a heavy front bar and none on the rear at all. Of course using a Torsen type diff has something to do with that but in principle I just don't like the independance of the rear suspension to be interfered with by a bar as that reduces rear grip, particularly relevant to a powerful car. The front can still be made to grip with a heavy bar and springs but  good dampers like the best MCA's help a lot there. Once with severe understeer I went with using two clicks of low speed damping to near neutral steer.

Realise that a suspension business would rather sell two bars than just one and while two bars will give a better feeling flatter ride that does not necessarily translate into ultimate grip.

Josh was adament about using stock bars only, but did say if I really wanted to do swaybars, only do the front. 

So we'll go with that for the next outing and see what happens. 

Tyres are already toast so might as well do some testing and not have to worry about chewing up expensive rubber. 

Hah, yep, and in that time we've had a second baby and I've spent 18mths on the 34.

Little Miss will be 1 in May and the bulk of the stuff I wanted to do on the 34 is done now so the Slowvia can get some love again :)

 

When on oem anti roll bar my RS13 was neutral or slightly understeering, but I always had some toe in at the rear to keep the rear in line. The body roll was awful so i tried big front roll bar/oem rear on my S13, shit tons of understeer mid corner through the exit. Yes the body roll was reduced but clearly not in an efficient way. Throwing in GKtech FLCA made things even worse. I had a little "incident" (read too stubborn to slow down the pace) on a track day in which I bent the left FLCA. I bought a new one, reverted back to the oem front anti roll bar and bought new coilovers as the old ones were simply chinese knock off.

I still didn't tested the new setup, I need and aligment and new tires.

I agree on the rear bar interfering on the indepedance of the rear with the S15 helical it is not a very good idea, I had a lot of one wheel spinning on slow/tight corner in 2nd gear. I might try disconnecting the rear if the new coilovers doesn't improve things. Or going 1.5 way as last resort.

I guess that suggesting MCA three way dampers does not fit in with the budget build concept, all I can say is that handling problems like severe understeer can sometimes be almost magically fixed by a couple of clicks of low speed damping. For my race car build the new set of coilovers will be sent to Murray to do his thing on before use.

Haha, no, but It's not out of the question, I just try to see what I can do without just buying top shelf everything. It's a challenge and I learn more along the way. The money I don't spend on this gets spent on the GTR. I think the Silvia could be pretty impressive if I'd spent the GTRs budget on this lol but then I wouldn't have a nice street car, so it's all compromises. 

Camber bolts in, instructions said bottom bolt for motorsport applications so that's where they went. Dialed for max camber straight up so I can check wheel to shock clearance when it's on the ground. 

Removed rear saybar and semi fitted S14 stocker, big difference. Only have endlinks connected as I didn't want to re-use my old D bushes so will get some new ones today. 

After that it wil be time for a decent brake bleed then off to exhaust fabricator to get hangars adjusted/mid muffler removed. 

Any chance any has one of those AP Engineering CA18 PowerFCs :D Otherwise, contemplating getting Nistune also just to maximise the midrange and add some safety. 

At the moment it has one of those stage 2 base map EPROMS in the standard ECU (Horsham Development) then SAFC and SITC to trim that up. Powerwise it makes about what every other Nistuned CA makes with this turbo and drives fine, but I imagine there's some midrange gains to be made plus some extra safety and response to knock would be good. Fabricator is also a tuner so could get both done at the same time. 

20170322_214437.jpg

20170322_221250.jpg

I've tried to address roll centre by increasing ride height a little as well as fitting 25mm roll centre adjusters on the ront (as they came with the R32 LCAs, Thanks Brisby!) and by flat mounting the rear subframe to the chassis, which raises it up and helps correct geometry, I did put some slip in spacers in the front of the subframe to angle it down as per Whitelines recommendation to alter the anti squat geometry. 

Just grabbed some front end links also, Hard Race ones should be fine for a budget option, they seem to review OK. 

 

Spent the last few weeks (on & off) reading all 42 pages on ns.com, very informative for the most part.

Very similar to the path I've taken/taking though in reverse, purchased my R32 GTR to do everything as an all rounder but have decided to revert that back to more of a weekend / shed queen as the prices do what they do with them and bought a SIL80.

Plan on following a similar path to you although I have a blacktop SR20DET.

I'm not sure if I'd consider yours to be 'budget' anymore :13_upside_down: maybe compared to some ;)

Mine will be 'backyard mechanics style' if yours is budget :4_joy:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...