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S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build


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Budget CA S13 Track Car

Moving my build thread from NS over to hear as NS seems pretty dead these days. 

Had the car for quite a few years now, has sat dormant for the last 18mths because I bought my 34 and poured all my time and money into that


Current mods/specs.


1989 CA18DET 5spd in secy two tone. 

146ks on a stock and original bottom end fresh head gasket and ARP studs.



GT2560/T28 BB on 17psi/18spi - 198rwkw

3" Turbo Back Exhaust with de-cat

Greddy intercooler.

Catch Can and Morosso Crankcase evac kit. 

Turbo Tech Boost Tap - The original and still the best. 

Adjustable Wastegate Actuator

R33 BOV - plumbed back.

Grex Oil Filter Relocation Kit

BTR Oil Cooler Thermostat

JJR Oil Cooler

Apexi SAFC V2

Apexi SITC

AEM Wideband Air Fuel Sensor and Gauge

RX7 460cc Injectors.

Surge Tank Setup Walbro 400lph lift pump, Walbro 255lph main pump. Aeroflow fittings and hose.

Alloy Radiator

"Custom" Semi Solid Engine Mounts.

CA18DET Exhaust Cam on the intake side and Adjustable Cam Gears

Xtreme HD Organic Clutch.

S15 helical diff centre with original crown and pinion to retain better ratio - Solid bushes.



Braided lines all round.

S15 Front Calipers/R33 Rear calipers (no handbrake anymore)

Ventilated and Slotted Rotors

TRW Pads all round

R32 GT-R Master Cylinder

R33 Brake Booster

DIY Brake ducts front and rear. 



BC BR Coilovers

S15 Power Steering Rack

GKtech high misalignment tie rod ends. 

Nagisa Auto roll centre adjusters

Cusco castor arms.

R32 FLCA's

S15 RLCA's

Front Strut Brace

ISC Rear Camber Arms

GKTech Rear Toe Arms.

S14 subframe with reinforcement plates

Solid subframe bushes.

Whiteline adjustable front swaybar. 

R32 GTR rear swaybar. 



C-West Twin Blade Adustable rear spoiler – alloy mounts under boot skin for support.

Dry Cell Mounted in Boot with Battery Isolater/Kill Switch cable up front + remote pull.

Aftermarket Steering Wheel

D1 Quick Release Hub

Momo Gear Knob

Momo Pedals

Auto Guage Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Guages

Velo Podium FRP Race Seat with Velo Harness and side mounts.

Custom Seat Frame, lowered for roof clearance.

Pro Fab Half Cage (dealing with Brad was fun...)

17x8 and 17x9 Volk(Rays) Rims. Federal RS-R 235s

R32 GT-R Grill

Hektic body kit.

Semi stripped interior, no AC etc.

big dollar tow strap

DIY Front Splitter

Soon to be rear diffuser.


Currently finishing off the front end suspension work/reassembly Getting some new front end links, changing out GTR rear swaybar for standard s14, car needs to go off to have some exhaust fab done (new hangers etc) then put it all back together and drive it for the first time in like 2 yrs... 

I pulled it off the road as the last out it was a realy handful to drive (with the new swaybars) and was torching the outside of the tyres. 

Full history/build is here.







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And this was its last outing... 

As you can see it's very unsettled, bouncing through corners and being nasty on tyres. 

The changes mad prior to that day were swaybars. 

If, after all the above changes, subframe, roll centre adjusters etc, it still sucks I might just go back to stock swaybar up front also like Josh at MCA recommended (picking up an S14 rear bar tonight). 



Edited by ActionDan
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Whiteline camber bolts on the way, have ,axed out strut tops at around -2.5 up front and wanted a little extra. 

This part pretty much fits all Nissan's


Get them cheaper on eBay. 

Picked up what I think is an S14 rear sway bar last night, certainly different to my rear sway bar. 

Sourcing some front end links now.

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You definately need to get the swaybar balance between fr and rear right
My r33 was very twichy once i installed a whiteline rear swaybar 22mm fixed
felt sketchy taking corners fast but definately reduced body roll and felt tighter
Removed it and back for the std item now as it feels more balaced and easier to control drifting
You should have just got a matching whiteline swaybar for the rear
How thick is your fr swaybar and adj?
Too thick and stiff swaybar up fr induces understeer
Too thick and stiff rear swaybar induces oversteer

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Yeah I know, I may just end up with stock bars and new bushes and links yet. Front bar is whiteline adjustable, I think they're 27mm? It's on the softest setting. 

Waiting on GKtech to advise when their end links are back in stock as their gear tends to be fine and well priced. Any issuses with Hard Race items? 

These arrived. 



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Have no idea how the S chassis goes with rear sway bars but my Z cars have always run with a heavy front bar and none on the rear at all. Of course using a Torsen type diff has something to do with that but in principle I just don't like the independance of the rear suspension to be interfered with by a bar as that reduces rear grip, particularly relevant to a powerful car. The front can still be made to grip with a heavy bar and springs but  good dampers like the best MCA's help a lot there. Once with severe understeer I went with using two clicks of low speed damping to near neutral steer.

Realise that a suspension business would rather sell two bars than just one and while two bars will give a better feeling flatter ride that does not necessarily translate into ultimate grip.

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Josh was adament about using stock bars only, but did say if I really wanted to do swaybars, only do the front. 

So we'll go with that for the next outing and see what happens. 

Tyres are already toast so might as well do some testing and not have to worry about chewing up expensive rubber. 

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Hah, yep, and in that time we've had a second baby and I've spent 18mths on the 34.

Little Miss will be 1 in May and the bulk of the stuff I wanted to do on the 34 is done now so the Slowvia can get some love again :)


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When on oem anti roll bar my RS13 was neutral or slightly understeering, but I always had some toe in at the rear to keep the rear in line. The body roll was awful so i tried big front roll bar/oem rear on my S13, shit tons of understeer mid corner through the exit. Yes the body roll was reduced but clearly not in an efficient way. Throwing in GKtech FLCA made things even worse. I had a little "incident" (read too stubborn to slow down the pace) on a track day in which I bent the left FLCA. I bought a new one, reverted back to the oem front anti roll bar and bought new coilovers as the old ones were simply chinese knock off.

I still didn't tested the new setup, I need and aligment and new tires.

I agree on the rear bar interfering on the indepedance of the rear with the S15 helical it is not a very good idea, I had a lot of one wheel spinning on slow/tight corner in 2nd gear. I might try disconnecting the rear if the new coilovers doesn't improve things. Or going 1.5 way as last resort.

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I guess that suggesting MCA three way dampers does not fit in with the budget build concept, all I can say is that handling problems like severe understeer can sometimes be almost magically fixed by a couple of clicks of low speed damping. For my race car build the new set of coilovers will be sent to Murray to do his thing on before use.

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Haha, no, but It's not out of the question, I just try to see what I can do without just buying top shelf everything. It's a challenge and I learn more along the way. The money I don't spend on this gets spent on the GTR. I think the Silvia could be pretty impressive if I'd spent the GTRs budget on this lol but then I wouldn't have a nice street car, so it's all compromises. 

Camber bolts in, instructions said bottom bolt for motorsport applications so that's where they went. Dialed for max camber straight up so I can check wheel to shock clearance when it's on the ground. 

Removed rear saybar and semi fitted S14 stocker, big difference. Only have endlinks connected as I didn't want to re-use my old D bushes so will get some new ones today. 

After that it wil be time for a decent brake bleed then off to exhaust fabricator to get hangars adjusted/mid muffler removed. 

Any chance any has one of those AP Engineering CA18 PowerFCs :D Otherwise, contemplating getting Nistune also just to maximise the midrange and add some safety. 

At the moment it has one of those stage 2 base map EPROMS in the standard ECU (Horsham Development) then SAFC and SITC to trim that up. Powerwise it makes about what every other Nistuned CA makes with this turbo and drives fine, but I imagine there's some midrange gains to be made plus some extra safety and response to knock would be good. Fabricator is also a tuner so could get both done at the same time. 



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I've tried to address roll centre by increasing ride height a little as well as fitting 25mm roll centre adjusters on the ront (as they came with the R32 LCAs, Thanks Brisby!) and by flat mounting the rear subframe to the chassis, which raises it up and helps correct geometry, I did put some slip in spacers in the front of the subframe to angle it down as per Whitelines recommendation to alter the anti squat geometry. 

Just grabbed some front end links also, Hard Race ones should be fine for a budget option, they seem to review OK. 


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Spent the last few weeks (on & off) reading all 42 pages on ns.com, very informative for the most part.

Very similar to the path I've taken/taking though in reverse, purchased my R32 GTR to do everything as an all rounder but have decided to revert that back to more of a weekend / shed queen as the prices do what they do with them and bought a SIL80.

Plan on following a similar path to you although I have a blacktop SR20DET.

I'm not sure if I'd consider yours to be 'budget' anymore :13_upside_down: maybe compared to some ;)

Mine will be 'backyard mechanics style' if yours is budget :4_joy:

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  • PranK changed the title to S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build

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