Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well bugger me, Dale has asked for an interim payment as we're on the home stretch now he tells me.

I'm going to start sussing out the costs of modifying my cage or decide if I just put a 6 point AGI or something in it. Dale tells me that if I can modify my cage/another cage to pick up the front and rear towers I will gain most of the chassis rigidity I'm after by changing chassis anyway and ultimately, after much deliberation and knowing I could buy a roller etc I think I just want to keep my little shit box. 

He was also saying that if possible to reinforce the locations where the rear subframe picks up, as we all know silvia chassis is pretty unsubstantial in the rear half of the car. 

That said, given it will take a fair bit of time to do all the shit the new engine needs, do I just start making incremental changes, 5 stud, 10" rims and slicks, brake package, fuel system etc, that I can use right now and keep driving it as I go? I did contemplate putting fresh rings and bearings in the CA as it's starting to lose a little compression, breathing a bit harder, turbo is bit smokey now etc. I assume the CA is worth more as a runner than if I just send it and blow it up, but am I shooting myself in the foot letting the Nissan out (it already has a new head gasket and ARP studs + head was refreshed). 



 

  • Like 1

Facebook Marketplace delivered, 90 bucks and a quick trip to Beechworth to load in the rain and get there first. 

Have wanted one for ages. Appears to have bugger all work.

Spoke to local fabricator, he wants some pics to discuss the feasibility of extending my cage, may be easier to start fresh but we'll see. Will snap some pics soon.

I would ideally like to pickup the front and rear towers and maybe rear subframe mount points for max benefit. 

Spoke to AGI, they were not willing to send a cage with any additional add ons and of course modifying one of their cages removes compliance.

 

Screenshot_20210525-165842_Facebook.jpg

  • Like 1

bargain on the crane
 With cage start from scratch and sell your half cage some drift guy will buy it.

How long until you want to drive/race again?
If building this megadon spec motor may as well go full megadon spec everything............ or sell it and just LS it, isn't Jooga's pretty quick and well sorted?

 

The motor is not full megadon spec, no dry sump, standard displacement, I won't go nuts on hot and cold sides it was just the bottom end and head that got a bit spicier.

Yeah Joogas car is quick, he's on his 3rd LS now and he has years of development and driving under his belt too, much more than me. 

Also has smart people working with him, I just have you spuds. 

Oh and slicks, big brakes, etc etc but he has done lot of it on a sensible budget. His car/times will be a benchmark for sure.

But no LS... Only boost.

I am talking to the same place that did his cage.

 

  • Like 2

get your chassis sorted with brakes, 5 stud and wheels done now.
Do as much driving while new combo is being finished (complete engine,turbo, inlet, gearbox setup) and then get it in over the off season. At least being able to enjoy the car will be a good thing

 

  • Like 1

Have sent pics to Whippet to see what he thinks. 

I'm thinking the engine combo is probs worth more as an original untouched bottom end rather than me refreshing it, using it for a season then moving it on, given a refresh will probs cost me a grand or 2 anyway DIY'ing and I might f**k it up :D Plus will take me time I should be spending on the main game. 

Pulling the CA to throw something else in there in so I can keep driving the car seems backwards as I could just as easily end up with a different dead engine anyway. 

Also considered removing CA, get to work on Silvia, but pick up a cheapo something to go blast with mates in the mean time and commit to not doing any real work on it. 

There's a supercharged 86 on Gumtree for 12.5k surely I could get most of that back in a years time... 


 

  • 2 weeks later...
Does anyone in Aus make weld in kits?
 
I'd like something such was what's pictured, specifically the front and rear ties to the strut towers to firm up the flexi boi half chassis in the S13 for circuit work.
 
AGI said no to modifying one of theirs, I said they could do it so it was compliant, they said no. Obviously compliance etc is lost if we modify it on our end.
 
The pictured cage is from AST overseas, I've never heard of them but something like that is about 3.5k landed or so, I can't find much feedback about them.
 
I am already talking to Whippet Engineering locally about modifying mine, but my mate who had his done said it was very expensive. 

No photo description available.

Oh and Brown Davis said they would supply a full kit (not notched) for about $1200 or do the full job for 4-5k (4hrs away from me). 

That was a for a "national spec" cage, I told it was just for club level time attack style stuff. 

I'm waiting for pics. 

In other news, shed wiring is almost complete :D

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought Australia got rid of the "drag dodgy fuel up to 91 RON with ethanol", which is why all E10 advertise as "up to 94 RON" ? Anyway I put E10/91 in the missus' Mazda because she empties the tank weekly, when all my cars get 98RON. tl;dr - turbo - 98 RON, if you can't afford that, sell it and get a commuter car (or tune your car for 91, which no one does).
    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
×
×
  • Create New...