Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 7/28/2022 at 5:14 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

thats the worst part waiting on parts.
Guessing something pretty decent too

Lol no not at all, I'm only excited because they're new and can finally have wheels and calipers on as my old 17s dont clear the calipers.

 

Still a budget bitch with budget wheels.

  • Like 1
On 7/28/2022 at 5:20 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

what brakes? 
From a quick mock up I am able to get my evo brembo setup (evo 10 rotor) under my 17x9 +22 Te37

350z brembos on 2 piece HFM rotors. 

 

Did not clear old banger Volk Emu shit offset 17x8s up front. No surprise there.

 

I sold the 17x9s as they were 4 stud.

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1

Juicy updates time. 

Invested in a brass wire grinder disc and got to work stripping the paint off the LCAs then put the hoist to good use and rattle canned them satin black. In traditional fashion, I rushed/went a bit hard in some spots so there will be no close ups of the runs OK 😅

20220731_130718.thumb.jpg.6fcc6480712503958a5c6d9adb9c3693.jpg20220731_135519.thumb.jpg.30ab250ff560d2131ab741cb185941e2.jpg20220731_145041.thumb.jpg.6e6c3f72d60745a6579ccc92a49dacfb.jpg

Hunted around to find some new boots for the ball joint as 1 had split, the metal ring they come with is just a smidge big so it unseats when the ball joint moves full sweep, the old ones did this too. What have others done in this situation? The lip on the ball joint itself is not fantastic so I was thinking some fine gauge wire/safety wire to wrap/twist? I've also included a pic of the original boot. 

20220731_145836.thumb.jpg.9f2d66f9ab068412c9702834cad9187f.jpg

Also, My wheels are arriving in the office today, but I'm working from home with a sick child sad reacts all all round. 

I've also got a drill bit coming to do the front hubs so I can fit rotors and calipers properly. 

Oh and here's another head pic update, Dale said he just had to tidy up above and below where the divider meets the roof/floor. 

295945482_422338566624829_8364544382125964728_n.thumb.jpg.5f18156f8e192c3d295e4044da44715c.jpg
 

Edited by ActionDan
On 8/2/2022 at 10:06 AM, bcozican said:

killer wheels nearly bought those myself so many times

Thanks dude, I like them alot and being able yo go custom size is wicked, hopefully 0 offset fits 😅

On 8/2/2022 at 12:31 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Nice, will look good on a white car.

Cheers, im thinking white or silver. 

 

I'd really prefer silver because that's my jam but a white car will work better with the NCR logo and some vinyls I think.

  • Like 1

Check the fitment on this rice boi ❤️ 

Could have gotten away with +20 in the rear for sure but wanted square rims and needed +0 for that epic front coilover clearance - the +20s i tested barely had 2-3mm and +10 would only work with mild camber. 

We'll see if we get away with those 50mm flares or wider guards - I have tubs for the front also. 

Oh and my LCAs went in perfect and have *perfect* clearance for tools on the swaybar/castor nuts. 

20220803_202306.thumb.jpg.efa391695ed1b4a301a9cc97350fdc00.jpgreceived_1438348636634397.thumb.jpeg.c71fad0fcbe9ce28e35a92212c1f818c.jpeg20220803_202422.thumb.jpg.1e1d1b0f15dd1ac5179a442d8d2f380e.jpg20220803_205348.thumb.jpg.e7b0677869f8674661eace3915f4c2d3.jpg20220803_202318.thumb.jpg.0e18ddce4848b3c7a6156b5fc9972e4c.jpgreceived_1756602028007065.thumb.jpeg.768fd423e84af370cbab832edae80c19.jpeg

  • Like 1
On 8/4/2022 at 11:50 AM, Duncan said:

fitment looks great, but they are super low profile tyres for track use

How bout now 😍

Just collected, the other 2 are going to a mate for test fitting.

 

20220804_114410.jpg

This update only on SAU because forums are the best for build threads so there will always be some extra info/details etc here. 

Bit of fiddling last night, wheels on up front, car movable again and back on hoist trying to work out if I actually need these tubs or not, having a hard time figuring it out (tubs are a lot of work and requires removal/change of lots of stuff in the bay too). 

Dale reckons I need at least 75mm of travel so I can try and work back off that, a full lock to lock saw minor contact front and rear on the plastic guard liner/quarter panel/body kit but otherwise nothing major. That was all static though, not under compression. 

I got them as I was told I would def need them for these size tyres so maybe I am underestimating how hard the car will lean on slicks. 

Also, ordered gktech castor arm braces and the bar to make my own nismo power brace thing to help resist chassis movement. I am planning on having the cage come through the firewall to the shock towers also. 

I'm waiting on ATP to come back to me as I assume I just have to put pressure on the tub and tack it in to place, but that profile looks very different! Added pic of his completed tubs for context. 




 

20220804_210207.jpg

20220804_210143.jpg

20220804_204413.jpg

Capture.PNG

Edited by ActionDan

It's very straightforward to check. Just take the springs off each corner, put the shocks/struts back in.  On the hoist, put the rear on a jack and move it through the full range up and down, just needs a mm or 2 for tyre deflection. At the front same deal except turn from lock to lock at say 5 points in the travel as well (top bottom middle and the in betweens).

With the GTR, the first place it hit was on the front bar at mid travel with wheels turned, because the caster pulls the wheel forward towards the bar compared to factory. Obviously you've dealt with the inner shoulder on control arm already, the other place is full lock, full compression hitting the inner guards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...