Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Variables to buying an R33 GTR

 

Alright so just before I start, I’d like to make it clear that I am not yet in the position to purchase an R33 GT-R. However, here are a few I am considering to save for over the next 18 months. Please tell me what you think, what traps I may be falling for. Obviously, you need to fully inspect the cars to really know what’s going on, however from what you can see are any of these vehicles worth taking another step towards?

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1995/SSE-AD-4577525/?Cr=1

After reading the article following the above link, real information on the car is quite limited and for $32,000 I’m not satisfied with what’s up for offer. The dents and scratches are frustrating, the odometer not functioning leaves we wondering if “mileage tinkering” has been attempted to sell the vehicle for a higher price. After reviewing photos of this vehicle I’d imagine is interior has been pretty well maintained given the age of the car. Then again, I plan to change the interior entirely, probably not leather. But I want the car to feel special when you sit inside it, not basic and dull. The engine has not been cleaned, Id suspect issues with rust. “no major modifications” could be close to a stock R-33 encouraging the price of 32,000 although there isn’t enough information to really know. Just an example car, I doubt I’d have $40,000 for the vehicle within 18 months but this is what I’d expect to see when I look at an engine, look how clean it is, If I can manage to save the 40,000 and given the army accommodate for your living needs to some extent this purchase would be extremely tempting. Probably not very smart though, can’t imagine I’d be left with much money afterwards.

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1997/SSE-AD-3945941/?Cr=10 

Wow ok here is one that is really catching my eye:

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-4151343/?Cr=12

There is not an awful lot of information of on the car but what a steal for the money. Only 71,000km no scratches and dents from what I can see. I would take a step towards this car to fully inspect for rust and when the opportunity comes and when I am ready to purchase the car and if this particular model is available I’d pay a third-party inspector to complete a full run through. Also posting photos on SAU to hopefully gain from the experience and knowledge all members are willing to share with me.

Here is one from gumtree, quite disappointed over the front bumper and only one photo of the engine. 131,465km. he’s just down in Tuggeranong which is pretty close to me. Probably go have a look but he’s only keen for serious buyers. Seems too dodgy, I would not consider purchasing this vehicle.

What do you guys think?

 

Cheers

Jerry

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470580-variables-to-buying-an-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Jeremiah O'Connor said:

my apologies, had not sent the link to the skyline on gumtree. here it is: 

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/franklin/cars-vans-utes/r33-skyline/1140467265

 

 

wtf?

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1995/SSE-AD-4577525/?Cr=1

Potentially ok, needs an in depth chat about the kms and the "history". It will need work, but the seller has indicated that. On the face of it probably not a good GTR for a first time owner. (IMO)

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1997/SSE-AD-3945941/?Cr=10 

This car looks legit, seems to be owned by someone who knows about GTRs and would expect to get what they are asking for the car. If you have this much money, this would be a good start. Of course, as with all cars, have it inspected, but from what I can see this looks like a legitimate sale with no tricks/nonsense being pulled. Worth your time to investigate.

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-1996/SSE-AD-4151343/?Cr=12

I contacted this person a long time ago, I couldn't confirm the kms (they have no paperwork) and the car was interstate so I passed. It has been climbing in price for around 12-18 months. This could be ok, I would suggest you would need to see this one in person. This car is not good value (IMO) when compared to the car above. But as always, it's what you want and what you are willing to pay. There may be nothing wrong with this at all, its time on the market may be the thing that is stopping it from being sold at this point. 

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/franklin/cars-vans-utes/r33-skyline/1140467265

This earns a solid "No". It isn't a GTR and doesn't look wonderful. If you want a GTR, please don't worry about any GTS-t models.

 

Also I think we talked in PM. Most cars you want to buy aren't technically up for sale. Generally you pop up a Wanted to buy. Word gets around behind the scenes and then, sure enough, someone who has a car tucked away in shed says, "yeah, I think it's time to move it on", gets in touch with you, and you agree to buy a car that is in excellent condition and wasn't really for sale until you asked around and for a price that you and the seller both like. (<Sometimes anyways).

 

 

  • Like 1

Cheers I really apprecieate that. Ahahah thats a GTS-T... I had a quick scroll didnt realise it was the GTS-T.

Anyways thanky ou all verry much. No I am not yet ready but will hopefully have upwards of 40,000 within the next 18 moths.

What would you recomend in terms of peice range for a first car. Dad says under $10,000 here I am saying im gonna hit the hours to spend $40,000. Does it seem lile a bad idea if im verry passionate and will work on the veichle?

If anything giving young kids the opportunities to handle high powered cars is really what gets them killed vs than looking after them. 

I'm just going to have to be very careful. I'll constantly ask what modifications I should and should not perform. 

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/3/2017 at 10:12 AM, GH05T said:

i got into enough trouble in the shitboxes i could afford.

I also fit into this category. I sometimes think about the dumb/reckless situations i got in and thank the universe that i'm still here.

  • Like 1

I'm just going to put this out there. In 18 months it's likely that none of those cars will still be available and prices are still going to increase. So I wouldn't even bother sussing out any cars until I'm actually in the position to go and buy it

  • Like 2

Well I'm just waiting on my current car to sell then I'll be ready and that purple 33 from Queensland has got my attention, looks very clean. Only thing I'm sus on is the comment about not ever taking it over 5000rpm???

  • 1 month later...

All GTR's are good cars just a matter of preference and staggering to know how they rise in $ in recent times.

As it was said before you are better off waiting until you have the savings before you start looking so you know where you stand.

If I was in your shoes I would be open minded to other cars e.g Evo great value for money and parts are readily available - food for thought

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...