Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTR V spec - Series 2

up for sale is my series 2 v-spec R33 gtr

Reason for sale is change of circumstances with work,

it is unfortunate but this is the most logical thing to do

 

Power fc with hand controller

Greddy elec boost controller

Nismo cluster 188XXX

Nismo gear knob

Billion digital thermo fan controller

Blitz power id meter

Blitz hardpipe intakes

Top secret imports air box

Hks hardpipe intercooler kit

Greddy catch can

Copper radiator

Silicone radiator hoses

5zigen front pipes and cat back Also come with a hks diff back

Blitz kevlar strut brace

Excedy clutch and light weight flywheel

Tein coilovers

Nismo front caster arms

Nismo rear camber arms

Nismo control arms

Series 3 headlights (xenons)

Series 3 bumper and n1 ducts

Series 3 front lip (brand new)

Genuine n1 bonnet lip (bolted into bonnet)

Cusco bonnet pins

Nismo front indicators

Nismo side indicators

Varstoen 19" 9.5 +20 New

New internal locking nuts

 

Will come with x force dump pipes Running 19psi Turbos should be steel internals for that much boost but hard to say without pulling apart

 

I have attached invoices for massive overhaul and everything mechanically done by top secret at 174000.

 

text my phone, you'll get instant response and im happy to take more photos/videos if needed

 

I have knocked the price down to 30k. I am solid at this amount. do not bother low balling me

 

Bad points 

small crease on left rear quarter and the bonnet pins on the paint work

air con idle hasn't been set up correctly in the power fc, stalls after a minute on idle 

drivers mirror doesn't fold in with switch

wheels need to be re balanced. Slight vibration in steering at 100km. Only started when i put these wheels

 

I will consider swapping for a s15 with a proper cash adjustment. Needs to be adm, factory blue, sunroof, cloth seats and factory turbo/manual.

dont bother trying to swap me a piece of shit.

 

11.jpg.24aa8b6e82b6e233080c80a179cff6d0.jpg

18813906_10155127806958598_8131715970978401311_n.jpg.d017407c9871968c699b354eee7a4c72.jpg

18882241_10155127806993598_5959707772870987782_n.jpg.57f125fd9be711c135f1f884a70441d8.jpg

18813975_10155127806998598_7276609814662012636_n.jpg.f838f37540cbbc405a6e70c1176a113b.jpg18920124_10155127807023598_2466761076929942583_n.jpg.2f1964f7fefe33a6bc24f2b31beef8e7.jpg

18951212_10155127806963598_7820529557385465062_n.jpg.cbf1c14c8f0ccad872970982ff9cb86a.jpg18950988_10155127807008598_7037655629875365230_n.jpg.3e2c6268f43c77ef26213e6831e32a59.jpg

18836073_10155127806943598_6182826413285197_n.jpg.7cbf2ea7c979eb664610a164b372aa51.jpg

18814214_10155127806948598_5572682142948224298_n.jpg.556d6bf43c40ebdf1b130734e909bf60.jpg

18836085_10155127807013598_4432651849789864521_n.jpg.57261ac57274bd8c62ce771ca8f91b14.jpg

cp4844216845634182258.jpg.40fd2f4caa54ac6bcded85a46d1ba5cd.jpgcp4925415846342795317.jpg.7fcc784796edb51699b1a51d50463506.jpgcp4899230858334177968.jpg.ba0b7f5eba51aa42265139a59213833e.jpg

cp5078943692624898239.jpg.c2e17b0319b3d612adda83bcd2acf997.jpg

cp5207501571745906589.jpg.c50519d790c70fc12529330141bcea17.jpg

cp5493773270480485584.jpg.df0ee474833a9e6087676000702c360e.jpg

cp5687121113386940632.jpg.9febe0d4e3a346944e88d4a17b0063ce.jpg

cp5747113206662722533.jpg.4afc89f335c674f023a9ef0686d0b1ac.jpg

 

 

18301824_10155127807003598_6554481791275373494_n.jpg

cp4644200466883491154.jpg

cp4806348217479048580.jpg

cp5180911649609982149.jpg

cp5409074903249764325.jpg

cp5448320241870004180.jpg

cp5462443898301490682.jpg

cp5682490357893891842.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471049-r33-gtr-v-spec-series-2/
Share on other sites

Last owner couldnt remember he said somewhere in sydney. Back when he purchased it and had all the service work done. 

 

I checked numbers they're stock. However, Stock ceramic wouldn't last that many years on 19psi from what everyone has told me

1 minute ago, J180 said:

Does car have bonnet pins or not ?Is there holes in the bonnet ?Is that damage on rear left bottom quarter ?

Read the description

Yes theres a crease on the quarter and yes it has bonnet pins.

The rad support hasn't been modified 

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...