Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Suspension mods for an R34 GTT

Hey Guys,

What suspension mods would you recommend doing on an R34 GTT to improve the handling, currently the only suspension mods i have are some BC coilovers.

The car is my daily, it doesnt see any track use, just some spirited driving outside town around the windy roads where i live.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471504-suspension-mods-for-an-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Tein or similar castor rods with pillow ball front joints.  Far and away the best thing you can do to the front end.

Poly upper arm bushes are a good thing at the front.  Get them with adjustability to be able to tweak the camber.

At the rear it is a tougher thing.  There is no point in only doing a little bit.  Once you consider changing one arm, it becomes an all or nothing sort of thing.  But minimally, bin the HICAS and put in a proper eliminator kit.  With a good alignment.

After that, you're looking at the next "minimal" thing being to put adjustable poly bushes in all the upper arms.

After that....it's fully adjustable arms up top, with rubber outer bushes or even pillowballs if you give no fark for police attention and NVH.  But that it overkill for a streeter.

  • Like 1

The worst thing you can do is put pillow ball front joints in the car.  It will change it so that every bump you go over will be amplified through the chassis and annoy the hell out of you.  So don't do it.  Other radius arms are fine without such joints also - nothing wrong with bushes.

If you want to do something get good spring rates and good dampers and match them to sway bars.  Good alignment (including ride height), low unsprung weight and no HICAS is about as good as you can hope for.

As was said in the first reply - good tyres make a huge difference.

On 8/4/2017 at 4:23 PM, djr81 said:

The worst thing you can do is put pillow ball front joints in the car. 

I still maintain that on front castor rods you can barely tell that they're there (from an NVH perspective) but that they work a million times better than even stiff urethane bushes.

I agree that they make life hard anywhere else.

Bin the BC junk and put something that's half decent in there. 

Bushes! The more of these you change, the better. It's definitely a case of "oh wow, I didn't realise how bad it was" until you start replacing them OR changing arms that have new bushes in them. It is basically a 20 year old car. They're going to be flogged! Alloy rear cradle collars is a great place to start. The difference just by doing that is huge!

* Every arm on my own car is Pillow Ball and it's nothing like you guys are describing. You would hardly know!

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...