Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FFP waste of time.  High mount manifold also waste of time.

You will get more power in total if you do either or both of;

  • highmount the HG turbo,
  • external gate.

But.....for your power targets neither are truly necessary.  Your likely best approach would be to mod the stock exhaust manifold to put an ext gate on the top of the collector and just low mount the HG turbo in the stock location.

You now need to go read all 599 pages of the HG turbo thread, where you will see these same things I have just told you.

Oh, one more thing.  No "chip and tune".  And not "after" the physical mods.  The car will not drive with a big turbo (and injectors) on it on stock management.  Do the ECU at the same time.  Your minimum approach there is to Nistune the stock ECU, in which case you will need a Z32 or better AFm to go with it.  Otherwise HG will happily sell you an Adaptronic ECU, or you can use any ECU of your choice, because let's face it, they all do the same bloody thing.

I'd recommend a gt3076 size turbo with stock mani and gate off rear housing  and some 260 Tomei drop in cams which you can setup to sound lumpy by tuning it that way .. that clip sounds like straight pipes at the rear?

Edited by AngryRB

I personally wouldn't do it off the housing either for obvious reasons.

The exhaust pressure would be through the roof by the time it is bleed post collector at the housing side.

You would want to run the gate off the stock manifold and preserve the stock divider as much as possible to reduce interference between the exhaust pulses.

I went from gate off housing to gate onto manifold and picked up ~20kW with the same timing map. Then rammed in more timing and the motor happily kept making more power. Eventually ended up making an additional 40kW with essentially the same turbo (just ball bearing centre instead of journal, same compressor wheel, same turbine wheel).

 

  • Like 1

Keep it coming guys. I'm reading all the posts, still deciding on what to do. The 34 is currently sitting in my garage fully stripped for new paint and gtr conversion without the wide body plus a shit load off aftermarket parts, bride seats, steering wheel, gear knob, carbon gtr bonnet, brand new interior the list goes on lol Hoping to have it all done by December and then I'll work the engine so keep posting you're ideas [emoji106]

Why all those mods? For bling and sting, do the ext wastgate mod, get a very good exhaust and a stand alone ecu with short loam to handle maxing your injectors and ignition. Also put a stink plazma man intercooler. Then with all the money saved, think of what motor you want, 2jz? Rb26/30, rb25neo?
Then buy the injectors and turbo for that engine, then buy that engine. At each step you are buying things that can continue to be used later as yoy upgrade engine. I think the 25 neo is badass.

A proper manifold and external gate will do wonders. I used to be a bit sceptical until I tried it on my own car, on turbos around the gt35 size you can pick up almost 1000rpm in spool and that will change the entire feel of the car

When you let the motor breathe of cause it will become more efficient.

Remember it's just a big bad air pump, air in, air out. Now this is why the twin boys have issues, massive front wheels and pea sized turbine side and wonder why they are laggy, have heat management issues and of course lift heads lol.

If you're on a budget modify the stock manifold so you essential have a "twin scroll-ish" manifold. Works wonders, I picked up 40kW purely from that - made 372 Real Australian kW on a Mainline dyno.

20160227_163438.thumb.jpg.ab5968c4a4038820feea6fe87ddd4b20.jpg

Gate off housing for me was WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY better at boost control than a 6boost is. I could run anywhere from 4psi to 35psi with gate off housing, min boost on the 6boost is like 15psi with a 50MM gate whereas the previous gate was 45mm.

Realistically what you're doing with gate on housing is having the gate happen after the Turbo flange, where all the air is being forced anyway and is the restriction in any manifold.

Making it all fit is always the issue, but it's about as equally as fitting as modifying the stock manifold to do it. Really depends on what you feel like getting cut up. China rear housings for GT35/GT30's are readily available for $200 new from Kinugawa etc. Stock manifolds are cheap too, though. Either works for what you're looking for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...