Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FFP waste of time.  High mount manifold also waste of time.

You will get more power in total if you do either or both of;

  • highmount the HG turbo,
  • external gate.

But.....for your power targets neither are truly necessary.  Your likely best approach would be to mod the stock exhaust manifold to put an ext gate on the top of the collector and just low mount the HG turbo in the stock location.

You now need to go read all 599 pages of the HG turbo thread, where you will see these same things I have just told you.

Oh, one more thing.  No "chip and tune".  And not "after" the physical mods.  The car will not drive with a big turbo (and injectors) on it on stock management.  Do the ECU at the same time.  Your minimum approach there is to Nistune the stock ECU, in which case you will need a Z32 or better AFm to go with it.  Otherwise HG will happily sell you an Adaptronic ECU, or you can use any ECU of your choice, because let's face it, they all do the same bloody thing.

I'd recommend a gt3076 size turbo with stock mani and gate off rear housing  and some 260 Tomei drop in cams which you can setup to sound lumpy by tuning it that way .. that clip sounds like straight pipes at the rear?

Edited by AngryRB

I personally wouldn't do it off the housing either for obvious reasons.

The exhaust pressure would be through the roof by the time it is bleed post collector at the housing side.

You would want to run the gate off the stock manifold and preserve the stock divider as much as possible to reduce interference between the exhaust pulses.

I went from gate off housing to gate onto manifold and picked up ~20kW with the same timing map. Then rammed in more timing and the motor happily kept making more power. Eventually ended up making an additional 40kW with essentially the same turbo (just ball bearing centre instead of journal, same compressor wheel, same turbine wheel).

 

  • Like 1

Keep it coming guys. I'm reading all the posts, still deciding on what to do. The 34 is currently sitting in my garage fully stripped for new paint and gtr conversion without the wide body plus a shit load off aftermarket parts, bride seats, steering wheel, gear knob, carbon gtr bonnet, brand new interior the list goes on lol Hoping to have it all done by December and then I'll work the engine so keep posting you're ideas [emoji106]

Why all those mods? For bling and sting, do the ext wastgate mod, get a very good exhaust and a stand alone ecu with short loam to handle maxing your injectors and ignition. Also put a stink plazma man intercooler. Then with all the money saved, think of what motor you want, 2jz? Rb26/30, rb25neo?
Then buy the injectors and turbo for that engine, then buy that engine. At each step you are buying things that can continue to be used later as yoy upgrade engine. I think the 25 neo is badass.

A proper manifold and external gate will do wonders. I used to be a bit sceptical until I tried it on my own car, on turbos around the gt35 size you can pick up almost 1000rpm in spool and that will change the entire feel of the car

When you let the motor breathe of cause it will become more efficient.

Remember it's just a big bad air pump, air in, air out. Now this is why the twin boys have issues, massive front wheels and pea sized turbine side and wonder why they are laggy, have heat management issues and of course lift heads lol.

If you're on a budget modify the stock manifold so you essential have a "twin scroll-ish" manifold. Works wonders, I picked up 40kW purely from that - made 372 Real Australian kW on a Mainline dyno.

20160227_163438.thumb.jpg.ab5968c4a4038820feea6fe87ddd4b20.jpg

Gate off housing for me was WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY, WAY better at boost control than a 6boost is. I could run anywhere from 4psi to 35psi with gate off housing, min boost on the 6boost is like 15psi with a 50MM gate whereas the previous gate was 45mm.

Realistically what you're doing with gate on housing is having the gate happen after the Turbo flange, where all the air is being forced anyway and is the restriction in any manifold.

Making it all fit is always the issue, but it's about as equally as fitting as modifying the stock manifold to do it. Really depends on what you feel like getting cut up. China rear housings for GT35/GT30's are readily available for $200 new from Kinugawa etc. Stock manifolds are cheap too, though. Either works for what you're looking for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...