Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

 

Those with experience with a r35 gtr

Is it worth buying?

I own a r34 gtr and will never part with it.

I have the money to by a r35 gtr I just want to know what ppl think of them running costs and so on?

I'd live to buy one now but the price keeps dropping on them I don't know what to do.

Advice please

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472111-is-it-worth-to-buy-a-r35-gtr/
Share on other sites

I was look at spending about 120k on a 35 gtr but I have not driven one. Ever since the 35 came out I wanted one now I can afford it i just don't know. There's more of a hype over r34 gtr's so am I just better with what I have?

no one can tell you how you will feel in a certain car, and if all you're concerned about is other peoples hype over the car you drive then sell the R34, add that r35 money and buy a Ferrari

 

  • Like 1
On 9/22/2017 at 9:27 AM, Leroy Peterson said:

Is it worth it? What are you looking for in a car? Is it for daily duties? Do you plan to track it? Plans to modify etc

 

On 9/23/2017 at 4:04 AM, thebluecheeseman said:

I was look at spending about 120k on a 35 gtr but I have not driven one. Ever since the 35 came out I wanted one now I can afford it i just don't know. There's more of a hype over r34 gtr's so am I just better with what I have?


Agreed with them. And if you haven't driven one yet, maybe consider test driving one to start with?

  • Like 1

I can wade in on this. 

I own a 34R, I test drove one of the very first JDM R35 imports into Aus in 2008/09 (happy to dig up the article from the website I wrote for if needed as proof) and recently test drove a basic bolt on MY11 back to back with an M4.

Go and drive it and I think you will be very surprised, possibly disappointed in some respects. 

To give you some idea of perspective, my 34 is a basic bolt on car with 380rwkw with some mild suspension and brake upgrades.

Things you might like about the 35.

  • Torque that starts low and doesn't really stop (the MY11 was a 400rwkw but it felt substantially faster than mine, partly torque partly the DSG.
  • The GR6 DCT shifts faster than you ever will in a manual, so if you want outright speed you cannot beat it in a 34 with a stock Getrag. 
  • The interior is a bit nicer. The 34 is basically a tarted up GT-T from the 90s, the 35 feels more like its price tag vs a 34 - though I didn't like the seat at all.
  • Cruise control/modern features: If you want to GT drive your skyline, cruise is nice. The features/electrics are just better in the 35 given the age gap. 
  • Tougher bottom end: The VR38 will make more power for longer given adequate cooling (don't forget the trans cooling). RBs are known for weak oil pumps, oil control issues etc

Things you might not like. 

  • Drivetrain really doesn't feel that refined: It still has the AWD clunks and shunts, even in the newer models that's just the nature of the beast. It does not feel like an upgrade in refinement on my 34 with a twin plate at all. I was really shocked. 
  • DCT woes: Worse in earlier models, but a risk in any, the DCT is expensive to fix and not everyone can or should play with it, earlier models benefit from circlip and cap upgrades, there's a known Bell Housing issue also. Fluid is a little pricey and there's 10L of it but those basic upgrades are actually not that expensive or difficult to do (youtube it). One of the cars greatest weapons is also potentially one of its biggest issues. 
  • Doesn't sound as good (subjective). 
  • Heavy bitch that eats rotors, plan on replacing them with good AP J hooks and get used to expensive tyres (run flats). 
  • Interior is still classic Nissan in terms of plastics, leather isn't high quality on the seats etc. 
  • Less options for aftermarket support (mechanics with the skills to modify and repair it, though you'll be fine in any capital city). 

My conclusion was the M4 was a much better all round package as a nice weekender but as it's a depreciating platform, vs the 34 that's at least sitting stable for now, I sat on it. 

I would move to a 35 that was modded, think MY11 on wards with 600rwhp+ but not worth bothering to get into an 09/10 especially if it's stock. 

Go and drive one. 

  • Like 3

Oh and from what it looks like, your 34 is fairly stock. A stock 35 will feel like an exotic supercar in comparison.

Lots of people will tell you that a GT-R really needs a bit of extra grunt from stock to feel half decent - The 35 has that from factory, a 34 will need a few basic bits to wake it up. 
 

Edited by ActionDan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...