Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me by looking at the photo what type of differential is inside this casing?

I need it to be LSD and 4.111. 

I have been told by the seller that is from an R33. As you can see from the picture it has 5 bolt axles and 4 bolt drive shaft. 

Does the part number on top mean anything or is manually checking the only way to know (i have to drive 2 hours, so would prefer to know before i drive 4hrs round trip and it not be what im looking for). 

d54Oy8y.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473186-is-this-r200-an-lsd/
Share on other sites

What do you mean it's concerning?

Point 1.  If it's from an R33 then it's either 4.11 or 4.08.  Unless you exactly exactly need it to be 4.11, 4.08 is close enough that it won't kill you.

Point 2.  The original R33 GTST LSD is not really an LSD.  It is a viscous LSD, which is an LSD by name only, not buy function.  It's function is to frustrate and depress anyone who has to drive a car equipped with it.  Therefore, you need the diff to have been opened and potentially glooped up with silicone in order for someone to have installed a real LSD.

I suggest you get the clown selling it to open it and send you photos of the numerical stampings on the crownwheel (to tell you the ratio) and a few photos of the pumpkin so you can see if it is open, nearly open (viscous) or a real diff.

Agreed, you need them to take the back off. no matter what it left the factory as, someone has been in there since.

I'll bet there were some R33s that had shorter ratios than 4.11 for instance gts4. The numbers will be on the crown wheel to tell you what the ratio is (needs to be opened)

Also, I note there are no ABS sensors on either the tailshaft or driveshaft outputs. from memory 33 gtst has 3 channel ABS with ABS on the tailshaft so it may not be gtst. I don't know where the gtr abs senders are on a gtr, but I would have thought they were on each driveshaft like r32....

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

What do you mean it's concerning?

Point 1.  If it's from an R33 then it's either 4.11 or 4.08.  Unless you exactly exactly need it to be 4.11, 4.08 is close enough that it won't kill you.

Point 2.  The original R33 GTST LSD is not really an LSD.  It is a viscous LSD, which is an LSD by name only, not buy function.  It's function is to frustrate and depress anyone who has to drive a car equipped with it.  Therefore, you need the diff to have been opened and potentially glooped up with silicone in order for someone to have installed a real LSD.

I suggest you get the clown selling it to open it and send you photos of the numerical stampings on the crownwheel (to tell you the ratio) and a few photos of the pumpkin so you can see if it is open, nearly open (viscous) or a real diff.

1) its not actually going into a skyline and my front and centre diffs are 4.111 so i'd like to keep it all the same so as not to deviate from the manufactures specifications. 

2) I see. Thanks for the info mate. 

I know others have done what im attempting to do (albeit in different countries) and most used r32 gtr rear diff/housing. 

Can anyone suggest any other diffs that are 5 bolt, 4.111 and have an LSD? 

It's mainly going to be used in a street car/drag racing application with around 600hp (6466 gen 2 on a 3.2L engine). 

I appreciate the replies 

 

you just can't guess mate, there were too many versions of r200 diffs and they are not interchangeable. Plus someone has been inside it.

To be sure you need:

* markings from crownwheel (to confirm ratio)

* pic of the diff centre to confirm LSD-ness

* count of the output shaft splines

30 minutes ago, Duncan said:

you just can't guess mate, there were too many versions of r200 diffs and they are not interchangeable. Plus someone has been inside it.

To be sure you need:

* markings from crownwheel (to confirm ratio)

* pic of the diff centre to confirm LSD-ness

* count of the output shaft splines

Yes, not going with the original seller anymore that i mentioned in the first post. 

So what im now after is info on which cars came with non-abs, 5 bolt, 4.11 LSD Diffs from the factory. If anyone has one of these, please pm me. Would prefer to buy from someone reputable on here rather than gumtree.

Well you can eliminate all the GTRs because they are 6 x 1. On the other hand all GTRs have a proper LSD so maybe you should consider changing your axles to 6 x 1. And it doesn't matter if they have ABS rings - you don't have to use them.

25 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Well you can eliminate all the GTRs because they are 6 x 1. On the other hand all GTRs have a proper LSD so maybe you should consider changing your axles to 6 x 1. And it doesn't matter if they have ABS rings - you don't have to use them.

Was only under the assumption that 5 bolt was stronger than than the 3x2 version so im totally open to a gtr diff as adapters have not been machined for my shafts. 

I've been posting in the classified for a fair amount of time and still have had no luck finding one. 

There are NO cars with R200 mechanical LSD with 5 bolt flanges.

All 5 bolters were VLSD, therefore AIDS.

All mech diffs were GTR 6 bolt.

There is no difference in diff strength or stub axle strength between Skyline style 5 bolt diffs and Silvia style 3x2 bolt diffs.  There is really no strength difference between the 5 bolt and 3x2 bolt driveshafts either.  It's just the the CV joints on the 5 bolters are proper CV joints and on 3x2s they were only tripod style CVs, which are not as good.  But Nissan thought they were good enough to put on a LOT of cars.

The diff VLSD centre from say, and S13 turbo is the same as from say, am R32 turbo.  The 3x2 and the 5 bolt stubs swap.  The only difference is the CW&P gearing bolted into it.

The GTR 6 bolt is not the same as the 3x2 (=6) bolt on the Silvia style (and NA Skyline) diffs.  The GTR stubs are bigger, stronger, more splines. 

If you want a 5 bolt flanged mechanical diff, you are going to HAVE to buy one that has an aftermarket centre in it. You will not find an unopened Nissan diff that fits your bill.

If you transplant a GTR diff in, you have to be aware that the GTR diffs used a CV joint style input on the tailshaft side, and (I think) the larger driveshafts really need you to swap to GTR uprights too.

15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Don't be intent on buying a factory mech LSD.  They are all a million years old.  You'd be far better off looking for a Cusco, Kaaz, Nismo etc aftermarket centre in an R32/3 housing with 5 bolt stubs.

Ok thanks.

I guess 1way would be the go since im still 4wd?

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Depends on what you want from it.  For a street diff 1-way will be fine.  For track, all the way to 2-way.

Car is only going to be used on the street or for drag racing. 

As long as it locks up both wheels from a dig, that's all i care about.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...