Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25det turbo leak???

Ibanex

By Ibanex,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ibanex Rookie

Ibanex

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I d like to ask for advice... My newly bought skyline running perfectly on 7 psi but if i raise the boost to 10 psi it cuts out at 6000 rpm and i just cannot tune it out.... when the engine is hot its getting worse (5500rpm)... I connected a  smoke machine to check for leaks...I marked the blocked pipes with red X....the smoke is immediately (at low pressure) coming out from the crankcase and from the inlet manifold...

20171216_140137.thumb.jpg.b0cb2b297a41de7fa8a06aa2f0b9dde8.jpg

 

It just doesn`t make sense to me how can it smokes from the engine when everything is blocked... Is my turbo leaking through the bearing housing back to exhaust and through the open valves comes out at the inlet? Or is it normal? Any idea? I m kind of getting hopeless for now maybe just i m the dumb and cannot tune it out (datalogit power fc, Z32 maf)... pls don`t spare me everything helps, have a good one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473789-rb25det-turbo-leak/
Share on other sites
Ibanex Rookie

Ibanex

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry about that i just didnt make a picture how the smoke was connected so i tried to improvise.... I connected the smoke to the inlet before the turbo (blue arrows).... I blocked the inlet from the intercooler so it should hold the pressure... but it s not holding any pressure since the smoke is coming out from the inlet manifold and the crankcase where the red arrows are with the ???.... And that s what i m asking if it s normal?

20171216_140137.jpg

RB25Detonator Contributor

RB25Detonator

Posted
Posted

I assume you have the breather pipe and bov plumb back pipe blocked that comes out of your stock intake pipe. Try blocking it closer to the turbo, for example, block it before it enters the intercooler.

or, enter smoke right after the turbo and block off the same as your picture^^

Ibanex Rookie

Ibanex

Posted
  • Author
Posted

NEO25T: I think I m gonna try it on the weekend

Kinkstaah: yeah it is an Apexi Power FC with Datalogit I have a log file what is happening...

the AFR at the cut point is about 10.75 (so it s not too rich or too lean) I ve tried to adjust the airflow data....change the whole MAF...still the same... after the car is hot the cut is happening at 4320 mV or less... It is a Garrett GT28 turbo, 7psi wastegate with a turbosmart tee set to 10psi

boostcut.png.c36ca76b7d6fa524fa18e7c69d94fdd0.png

RB25detonator: yeah i ve done it too leaking out on the same places (crankcase and inlet)

NEO25T Collaborator

NEO25T

Posted
Posted

Out of curiosity how did you block the pipes?

The easiest way i found was to bag the end of the pipe with black plastic and clamp it back together. 

What spark plugs are in it, thinking back mine cut out like a rev limit at 6k when i got it. The plugs in it were nasty and new ones fixed it up

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
On 4/18/2018 at 8:50 PM, Ibanex said:

yeah I used rubber gloves with clamp for alloy inlet and for the hose used degreaser can and clamped it  for smaller pipes just bolt and clamp.

I thought about the plugs too and I changed them last week for NGK BCPR7ES... they should be fine right?

They should be OK but Iridiums better. If you still have stock coils are your plugs gapped down to ).8mm?

Ibanex Rookie

Ibanex

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the only thing is that it really doesnt feel like a missfire...it just cuts out all together...  these plugs came already gapped to 0.8mm and the coilpacks (blue splitfires) should not be older than 2 years... so not too much left just keep on experimenting and spending some money...

  • 2 weeks later...
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted

If that is a full WOT pull, from the entirety of the video (i.e not backing off) and boost is dropping into massive vaccum like that, I'd be putting my money on that stock silicon hose sucking shut.


Especially given you said it runs fine on stock boost...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...