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Yep, you need to set the pump up with a dial indicator and re-dowel as Mitchum has said. Obviously you don't go to these lengths for a basic rebuild.

Car was running on the dyno yesterday but ran out of turbo pretty early so had to stop it at 5k rpm as the EMAP was off the charts. I'll post a log over the weekend of rpm vs oil pressure

4 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

Car was running on the dyno yesterday but ran out of turbo pretty early so had to stop it at 5k rpm as the EMAP was off the charts. I'll post a log over the weekend of rpm vs oil pressure

Looking forward to that.  Would be cool if you can post up learnings/logs in an appropriate thread for EMAP/IMAP too!

I mounted dial indicators on the north/south and east/west angles.. loosely mounted the oil pump and moved it upwards downwards side to side etc.. to see the total clearance in each direction.. then split the clearance and tightened pump down..

On 10/12/2018 at 1:29 PM, Dale FZ1 said:

Looking forward to that.  Would be cool if you can post up learnings/logs in an appropriate thread for EMAP/IMAP too!

I didn't get the car back on Friday as expected, they are going to finish the dash config on Monday so I should have it back on Wednesday.

I'm going to have a chat with my local Motec boffin about some strategies to get it working more effectively. I can run a couple of comp tables to compare EMAP/IMAP/Turbine speed and EGT, I think I'll have to pull out a fair whack of timing at higher RPM as the EMAP gets out of control. The engine has fairly high dynamic comp to work with E85 and doesn't take much timing on 98.

I'm limited by the class of racing that I'm doing to using 'standard' housings. Obviously you can highflow but the 21u housing is choking the shit out of things and has zero ability to regulate boost so I've got some fairly radical plans for the turbine housing. Car made good power on 98. It's an RB20 (Roy would love it).

With the dial indicators, my engine builder setup two at 90 degrees to each other and measured the movement in the pump housing from the centreline then very slowly did up the bolts while keeping the pump housing centred using a nylon hammer and some love taps. 

Edited by Komdotkom
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

As far as I know Spool makes kits only for old 81mm OEM and N1 pumps, while Supertec does for all pumps, except maybe HKS and Reimax. Also Supertec makes a high flow N1 splined kit with wider back plate, so pump flows 6 liters per minute more.

Black painted kits are Spool, genuine metal finish for Supertec. So Tomei, Jun/Nitto/Greddy pumps owners have only a Supertec option.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have installed a Spool spline drive kit on my RB30/26 build.  I wasn't aware of the alignment problems associated with this setup and installed it without aligning it.  After about 1000 miles, my oil pump lost pressure about 1 mile from my house.  I got no pressure under 3k rpm but slight pressure above it.  But in doing so, I'm afraid the damage has already been done because I have a slight knock when I rev the engine past 2500 rpm.  I plan on pulling the engine back out and inspecting to see what went wrong.  Unfortunately, I stumbled upon this post too late. 

On 12/11/2018 at 2:38 AM, mitchum said:

sorry to hear about the trouble, When i purchased mine it had instructions of how to properly align it..

Let us know what you find!

Could you post the instructions here please?

6 minutes ago, ENR34rb said:

This is a Supertec installation manual (attached). Not sure if it works for Spool.

Supertec_Splined_Drive_Manual.V4.1.pdf

Cheers man! It's more so just for the alignment of the pump to the crank.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
2 hours ago, ENR34rb said:

Finally Nitto made a splined drive kit. After all these years. ?

And after saying it doesn't work. Sounds funny now.

Pretty sure they said it wouldn't work due to the harmonics of the RB etc etc.. I guess they will be redacting their comments.

 

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