Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds shocking to me. But if you don't want to do it yourself you will have to pay what someone else wants. Best bet is to get a couple more quotes - preferably from suspension specialists

Various subframe bushes.  These are all viable options.  OEM bushes would be similar pricing.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Whiteline-Rear-Subframe-Bush-Mount-Kit-W92446-fits-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34/182367596068?fits=Plat_Gen%3AR32&epid=25017000709&hash=item2a75f4ae24:g:QQYAAOSwLghZt-vl

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SuperPro-Rear-Subframe-Mount-Bush-Kit-Fits-Nissan-SPF3774K/152475195902?epid=25017000314&hash=item23803ad9fe

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HARDRACE-Rear-Subframe-Bush-Harden-Rubber-S13-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32/332207660763?epid=608591038&hash=item4d591e9edb:g:wZwAAOSwONBZDDms

 

Various diff bushes.  Same thinking as above.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERPRO-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-2WD-REAR-DIFF-REAR-BUSH-BUSHING-KIT-CROSS-MEMBER/112509022194?epid=28017011598&hash=item1a320f6ff2:g:Yk8AAOSwHnFVn3Ea

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOLATHANE-Rr-DIFF-SUPPORT-MOUNT-BUSHES-SUIT-SKYLINE-R-32-33-34-GTS-GTR-AWD-49162/191681010188?epid=1550428335&hash=item2ca1141a0c:g:Vz8AAMXQQUpRCgZM

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ZSS-Rear-Diff-Support-Member-Bushes-Nissan-S14-S15-R32-R33-R34-Z32/371515134157?epid=610886258&hash=item56800710cd:g:GXoAAOSwUdlWejLK

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WHITELINE-Diff-support-R-BUSHES-KDT913-FIT-NISSAN-GTR-R32-R33-R34-RB26DETT/360903073105?hash=item54077fdd51:g:rzkAAOSw4A5Y1IVN

 

I think it's easy to see how you can spend $500 on the bushes.  A day for a mechanic to drop and strip a subframe enough to push these bushes in and out and then refit and get it wheel aligned and shit might sound outrageous.....but it's not really.

Having recently done this exact job, the parts quote is actually quite fair, the subframe bushes and diff mount bushes are quite expensive.

The amount of labor to remove this from the car, do the job, refit the subframe to the car, it could quite easily be a days work.

It may be slightly less than a days work, but you're talking between 8 hours and 6 hours depending on how amazing and determined the mechanic actually is, most people who do this swear they will never do the subframe bushes again and up their prices the next time. Maybe he has just done it before ?

Prices on the parts is a bit over the top, labour wise about $700~800 is fair.

I suggest try to get the labour down to $700~$800 and supply all the parts yourself. Wait till there's a 20% sale on eBay and get all your bushes/parts from Sparesbox, etc.

I've done the job myself, and without a hoist and doing it on the floor it took me a full day with 2x mates. These days, would happily hand over that money to a shop to do it.

  • Like 1

That is a fair price. 

I've done a few myself its easy to drop subframe, remove the arms and diff, take to a shop to press out & in bushes then re install. Took about 5 hours with driving to and from the workshop. Shop charged $100 for the labour. 

Price is dependant on where you are, I know here it would cost more to get it done. It is a prick of a job doing the diff mounts. Buy the Whiteline or whatever stuff yourself and get someone else to do it. Done my whole r32 GTR rear end myself with everything whiteline, and I mean everything. The vertical diff bushes were a real farked job. Cannot be pressed out on car, have to be cut / die grinded out. It's getting the old ones out that's the problem.

On 9/27/2018 at 11:15 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Prices on the parts is a bit over the top, labour wise about $700~800 is fair.

I suggest try to get the labour down to $700~$800 and supply all the parts yourself.

Only problem with supplying parts yourself is if something goes wrong, its messy. Yeah its pretty hard to go wrong with bushes but I have had some lower control arm bushes fail on me many years ago (what were the light blue ones? IIRC the company went bust).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...