Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the golden age of now, it is more than obvious that the BCNR33 is the ultimate race-bred chassis out of the lineage.

Whilst the BNR34 commands a higher price, the reality is upon its debut in Super Taikyu racing it quickly fell behind and was then replaced by the faster older BCNR33 chassis'.

The design & wheelbase of the BCNR33 relates to it's superlative & brutal performance. This reality meant Nissan focused on 'improving control at the limit' for the BNR34, to help the everyday driver which essentially made it a slower car and why a new Nurburgring lap time was never set.

Not only did the BCNR33 make history at the Nurburgring, it terrorised Le Mans knocking coming in 5th in Class & 10th overall. We all know how restricted the R33 was in both of these events, so the fact it left 911's, NSX's, F40's and Mclaren F1's behind is simply amazing.

As we all know, by now most BCNR33's have fell victim to accident damage &/or structural rust particularly in Japan & the UK. Just about every example I looked at in Japan in Grade 4 condition had structural rust through seams and on the underbody. For a long time they were swept under the rug and unappreciated, so this is no suprise.

Thus it's important that for those of us with an immaculate example - to come here to the thread, drink a coffee, post pictures & discuss just how great the BCNR33 really is.

If we ever decide to sell (which is highly unlikely due to our sentimental attachment to a 'rare breed') anyone from overseas looking will be able to find us.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475768-r33-gt-r-preservation-society/
Share on other sites

I suggest if you wanna be part of this preservation society you are trying to start up you best stop bashing keyboard keys and take to that car of yours with a grinder, a welder, a power wire brush and some rust converter in order to preserve your R33. 

Best get some more CURRENT pics up in your build thread also to show the world of this "pristine GTR" in its current state that you own. Not the underside pics of it when it was being built 20 years ago like you posted.

 

  • Like 4
4 hours ago, Mick_o said:

I suggest if you wanna be part of this preservation society you are trying to start up you best stop bashing keyboard keys and take to that car of yours with a grinder, a welder, a power wire brush and some rust converter in order to preserve your R33. 

Best get some more CURRENT pics up in your build thread also to show the world of this "pristine GTR" in its current state that you own. Not the underside pics of it when it was being built 20 years ago like you posted.

 

Oh, controversy.

Anyway, on topic: I've always liked the R32 GTR, it is the "real" Godzilla after all......

But I digress.

http://gtr-registry.com/en-r34-sup

The Nissan Skyline R34 GT-R utterly dominated the Super Taikyu N1 Racing Series (Group N Super Endurance) from 1999 until its final season in 2003, winning 5 consecutive times.

The championship winners were:
1999 - #32 Prince Chiba Falken
2000 - #50 5ZIGEN Falken
2001 - #1 Falken
2002 - #3 Endless Advan
2003 - #1 Endless

Super Taikyu website

 

 

images.jpeg

This thread is all over the place. Lol.

I believe that there are others all over the world restoring R33s to factory condition. I know of three that have undergone complete restoration, including the removal and patching of rust areas.
At least two of them were stripped to shells, repaired and then treated prior to painting.
There's currently a 400R (in the UK i think) being restored down to the origianl clips for the hoses and wiring harnesses.

What is needed is a National Park where handlers can catch and release GTR R33's.….to let them roam free.  Somewhere in Central Australia maybe - or should it be a marine sanctuary? We could get the Greens and Greenpeace to use their powers of persuasion to help promote this idea in parliament.

Maybe you should set up a charity and a GoFundMe page as a starter?

 

I don't understand why people who don't own an R33 GT-R are trying to get in on the preservation society, this isn't an amusement park ?!!!! Only R33 GT-R owners are welcome, so now non R33 GT-R owners are banned from the thread ?

  • Haha 1

The one good thing about r33 is typically the owners

while r32 owners are wankers and 34 owners are massive wankers, the r33 gtr owner is only a want to be wanker ( once peopel start restoring them to factory specification) I will sell cause that’s a sign of the lever of total wanker owners

@fatz I don't understand. I quite like Hawkins, but his "they should all be modified cause i say so shit grates on my nerves"

Why can't i aspire to a stock 400R or straight R33 GTR? Is it a requirement of adulthood that I only aspire to a Porsche or Ferrari?

Do whatever you want my tip is to never listen to me I only dribble shit
Ha! I have said this exact comment to people before! I once called out a 33 with a 34 GTR front end. Called it an abomination, a guy sends me a PM of his car with a 34 front end, 33 back end. (I feel bad for a few minutes).
On a serious note though the R33 GTR LM was my dream car. Money no object is a 400R. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has this opinion (or am I?).
11 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:

The thing that would really round this thread out nicely would be a post advertising an R33 GT-R only meet in a public place e.g. Woolies carpark - no spectators of course

That kind of weird camp shit is reserved for r34 wankers

Jesus christ Benny, this is getting out of hand. Please put down the pipe. 

A few of us are aware of the real condition of your car, so please stop making out like the photos you posted are current and accurate. It's fine to love your car, warts and all, but this banging on about 33s being the best thing ever has got to stop. 

I've owned a 33 and a 34, guess what they both suck for various reasons and are awesome for others. Each model is good and bad for various reasons, no different than any other series of cars in history.  

  • Like 2
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...