Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Re oil control - you won't be able to do much at all without pulling the engine out, and if you pull the engine out it's probably worth doing as much as possible. This includes an extended & baffled sump, and a drain from the back of the head (you need to drill & tap holes to mount this, which is why it can't be done with the engine in the car). Then you need to decide if you want to remove the head, and fit restrictors & drill out the block oil returns. It can get expensive very quickly, but so can oil starvation.

Lewis Racing Engines in SA sell extended baffled sumps & head drain kits at reasonable prices. If you do buy a sump, get some extra nipples added for a catch can to drain to, and for the side head drain if you ever change to an RB30 block.

I tried just adding more oil, but found that it just got pumped out the breathers really quickly at high revs.

I believe the RB25 needs these mods as much as a 26 does. I destroyed an almost new turbo from what was almost certainly oil starvation, and the broken bits of turbine scratched the bores of a freshly machined block & new forged pistons. Should have done it properly the first time.

Re harness mounts - I made a harness bar that bolts to the top mounting points for the rear seatbelts. Basically a length of roll-cage bar, with a bit of 50x5 flat bar welded to each end. This puts the harness angles pretty much horizontal, and it has been scrutineered probably 30+ times with no issues.

  • Like 1

Just in case anyone else buys a Cusco Safety 21 4 point full capacity Rollcage (281 270 A20) to get the harness bar in i have bought two of the FIA Roll Cage Joints and will weld them to the cage with a piece of 40mm tubing. the joints are available here https://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-40mm-fia-roll-cage-joint-kit.html 

This allows the harness bar to be removed when not needed

The add on bars cusco sell directly do not have the strength to be used for a harness.

Edited by Tobz

Cage arrived today!!!

I got the Cusco 4 Point Full Capacity Cage which follows the roof line for the main hoop and goes over the top of the windows for the rear supports. I've ordered an FIA 40mm Roll Cage Join to add a harness bar across the two rear struts.

Here is some pictures

20190906_171024.jpg

20190906_171006.jpg

4 hours ago, WR33KD said:

Is the bolt in cage FIA approved? 

Nope, all the events ill be entering dont require a cage for a street registered car, but for my own safety i wanted to run a harness and a hans device (Just feel safer). Also im not 100% sure i trust the A pillars on these cars, they look tiny!  So for this purpose the cage is perfect.

 

10 hours ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Loving that you're keeping the build updated

Was hoping you wouldn't mind, is nice to see the full history of a car in one place :)

Arghhh, I keep buying parts for the car but don't have the time to install as yet and still waiting for my new shed to arrive.

But ordered the alpha omega racing Evo brake upgrade kit today!

 

Took the car to Wakefield on the weekend, and it did not inspire confidence under brakes

Need Elig or Intima pads? ?

I can help with either and also DBA rotors and Turbosmart stuff.

Most of the time the brakes aren't too bad, but it's the choice of friction material that is the real let down.

What times were you lapping at Wakefield?

 

On 22/09/2019 at 12:13 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Need Elig or Intima pads? ?

I can help with either and also DBA rotors and Turbosmart stuff.

Most of the time the brakes aren't too bad, but it's the choice of friction material that is the real let down.

What times were you lapping at Wakefield?

 

Yer i was running Project Mu HC800 pads but they just were overheating after a few big stops. Was running fresh Motul 600 fluid too.

Times on the weekend were terrible though as we had an oil spill on turn one, so couldn't really attack the braking zone there too hard. 

Yeah HC800 are the Thailand version of the HC+

You'll find some Aussie retailers will tell you that the HC+ and HC800 are the same, they're very different.

HC+ is made in Japan (and the price shows too)

Do you need new pads for your new setup?
 

  • 3 months later...

Finally started working on the car again! Been slow going as I loved house and had a heap of issues getting my shed setup! But it’s all working now.

 

just installed my whiteline swaybars front and rear (27mm front and 24mm rear) hoping this will fix some of the rollyness in the car :)

 

also got the alpha omega brake upgrade kit, in the process of painting them up before installation. Added some pictures of them sanded back and one caliper I have finished painting. Hoping to have it all completed next week! Hopefully! Next few weekends will be busy as we are also building a n15 sss pulsar for lemons as a replacement for our current Celica we have been running. 

 

Also installed some led rear tail lights, just need to find away to restore the fronts, has a bit of oxidation on them.

78633228-875F-4327-BD18-23A2F935E883.jpeg

48D551EB-A7B0-450A-8DD7-8243642A2105.jpeg

2E852204-47C0-46ED-800D-47F32350B352.jpeg

884D52CC-A4FE-4181-AD99-D10BA7B85D10.jpeg

21EC0509-BB14-4807-B585-4BD4701F1A39.jpeg

704BC5CD-F9B4-431B-BB10-A06C3064DA18.jpeg

Edited by Tobz

Got a bit more work done tonight, was raining here in Canberra so couldn’t finish the brakes off as they still need some paint. So started work on the oil cooler. The blitz oil cooler kit is really good quality and basically is bolt on so far (had to shave a bracket slightly due to the oil cooler bracket). Otherwise so far so good, just need to tighten it all up and install the sandwich plate after. 

F00EF8DB-871C-4921-93F1-BF9D49295C0D.jpeg

6139CF41-9994-4E0A-BFD1-B358968D5421.jpeg

E8AD1104-854A-4D7D-8268-7335AC45710B.jpeg

Only thing I don’t love is that the oil cooler lines run under the radiator (see last pic above). However it seems to be higher than the tow hook and cross members etc so should be fairly well protected... unless I need to use the tow hook.... might need to install another tow hook somewhere

 

also the lines are beautiful braided lines, but they supply some good quality plastic hose protectors, which I am using :)

Edited by Tobz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...