Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally Gotten around to starting my Diy RHD Twin Turbo Build.

Posting it all up to my Youtube Channel as i'm **** at typing stuff out

I've already done 2 fuel system mod vids, but this is the first proper start of the Twin Turbo Build.

Hope some of you guys find it interesting.

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479282-diy-370gt-rhd-twin-turbo-build/
Share on other sites

Way to go Trevor, looks like fun. Enjoyed the DIY milling you did.  How do you plan to route the turbo plumbing re the trans ? Also who will beef up the trans? (I assume 7AT)

Cheers

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by mybrains

G'day Mate, plumbing isn't an issue with the trans, all good.

Trans is 5at RE5R05A.

I did the valve body myself a couple of years ago, I have a Fast Intentions Billet Flex Plate & will do the converter while its out for this part of the build.

The whole trans will get a rebuild & beef up as soon as I can afford it too. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

Probably have a crack at it myself.

Cheers.

I read somewhere the 5AT holds together better than the 7AT. I know of a few co-s in USA that can rebuild these trans tougher but not heard of anybody local? maybe ship in a kit ..... (for us less skilled than you :)

Also re motor CR being 11:1 and adding boost on top of this -  do you plan to rebuild the motor (pistons, rings, rods+rebore) or keep stock and maybe decompress somewhat with thick/multiple head gaskets ?  No idea if a head height increase would foul the intakes being a V design.... E85 (105-107 ron) is a choice to help out but being 30% less efficient the driving range would have to be impacted (and any rubber in the fuel line, maps etc). I did read that a few United servos have P100 (98 Octane + 10% ethanol). This seems a better high CR fuel to keep teh range up though not as high RON.

 

Yeah i was reading the 7AT is fragile compared to the 5AT.
Stock 5AT's can handle around 500whp fine as is. Depends how much power this brings out.

Motor unopened will also run 450hp-500hp Safely. e85 around 11psi is fine for that power.

We have a 370z in our car club running 450rwhp @6psi on 98. Never once had a mechanical issue.

Cheers Guys, yep stock motor, as stated above no real reason to be dropping compression, doing a rebuild etc.

Sure if you were looking to build a monster & had plenty of $$$$'s to throw at it, by all means.

For Street Duty its quite capable as is with some low boost.

There are many other limitations for how far i go with true street driven vehicles too, no 1 being Driver Skill.

Should be plenty for an old fart like me.

Was hoping to get quite a bit more done on it this week, but unfortunately the wife had a fall on Sunday putting up Christmas decorations of all things & Fractured her Spine. So needless to say I've been in out of the Hospital all week.

I'll be loading up a couple of videos on some other stuff i'd already finished (not car related) to my youtube channel tomorrow, so don't be disappointed when other stuff shows up if you have subscribed to me.

The Turbo Build will be continuing, just a badly timed hiccup.

Apologies Guys,

Cheers,

Trev.

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
5 hours ago, mycarhasposessedme said:

Episode 2 up now if anyone's interested.

Cheers.

 

re steering knuckle - great explanation, thanks !  What about using matching turbos (one reverse - see pic. That should allow complementary piping) ? 

turbo set.jpg

Edited by mybrains

Also here is the new OEM Garrett MGT offset turbo. Its designed to shoot the compressor outlet straight upwards to the manifold (via air to water intercoolers mounted on manifold). Yes its small (450HP) but Ill find out if Garrett have slightly bigger ones or if it can have the compressor side upgraded & wastegate ported at least to get to 500hp.

 

IMG_7705.jpg

IMG_7713.jpg

IMG_7710.jpg

Edited by mybrains

Trev,  you using T2 or T3 size ? I cant tell size from the utube pic. Initially T2 frame would be my thought due to space limitations. I have no experience regarding IHI or borg warner turbos but wonder if they are better than Garrett in tight spaces. AAM kit uses borg for instance.

Those little MGT offsets above Nissan VR30s are using look T1 in scale to me. Part number MGT14446LKSZ, MGT 14 series. The Q50/60 tuners have maxed them to 17+PSI/E85. Yes they choke on top end of curve, but they do give fantastic low to mid power without lag (Nissan goal no doubt). Also their tiny frame fits in the limited space even better. I now wonder if a T1 size compromise may be the best on a stock V36 block ?   Food for thought. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm liking your video blog of your project's progress mate. I don't see myself ever going to that effort but that doesn't stop me from admiring your commitment and craftsmanship.

Question for you about your engine mounts. I noticed you've got the Z1 Motorsports urethane mounts on it. Do you consider them to be worthwhile even before embarking on the turbo project? Did you do the transmission mount while you were at it? Any other mounts along the line that are worth mentioning, such as the diff bush?

Just been working my way through the Z1 catalogue and I'm contemplating what I should add to my retail therapy list. Thanks!!

G'day Mate,  I installed the Z1 Urethane Transmission Mount about 2 years ago, in my opinion it was a worthwhile mod. The trans does move around a bit on those hard launches & 1-2, 2-3 changes. It totally solved that.

I also did the rear cradle bushes (whiteline Urethane) & also the Diff Bush (again Whiteline Urethane).

They were done around 3 years ago & again imo a worthwhile upgrade. The NVH has gone up quite a bit, though for me that's not a problem. I would describe it as a bit of road rumble & you can feel the drive line when accelerating etc. Its really not that bad though. Some folks are really funny about that sort of thing, so it appears to be a bit of a personal preference.

Basically, every suspension component you change will add a degree of NVH.

The Factory package is pretty good to be honest, apart from just general mushiness, considering how well it handles stock & how well it isolates.

Cheers Mate.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...