Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would say that there is absolutely no problem with running WMI, just so long as you do it properly. You need a good ECU so that you can have safety maps. You either need a really robust WMI system with enough sensors to know when it is working or broken and with a reliable output to the ECU so that the ECU can know also and go to safety, OR, you run it with the very decent ECU with enough sensors for safety.

The ECU needs to also be handling boost control - because you can't make power without boost and you can't run big boost even with "safe" maps when you don't have your WMI available.

The smart approach would be to have EGT monitoring on each cylinder as a last ditch safety catch, that will cause the ECU to go to safety if temp limits are exceeded. So you're looking at top end Haltech/Link/Syvecs/Motec level gear here.

lots of good info there, I know on my old dodge cummins 12 valves we plumb in egt probes into the exhaust manifold for an accurate reading. I already have a haltec on the car with just a basemap for the twins(2860's). haven't been able to tune it yet its cold as hell out just tried it a couple times when I replaced the g sensor. ill post what I end up running but I think im just gunna bite the bullet and get some race fuel. cheers mate. 

I currently just popped a code 24 on my atessa Ecu. My Abs light and 4wd light on. No 4wd forsure I have it on stands and front tourque gauge won’t move. Wheels do spin but it’s just a little bit. I’m thinking nitrogen accumulator. Need help tho been a 6 day battle lol. I had a code 13 weeks ago fixed it with du lock g sensor v2. 

* downloads workshop manual *
24 or continually on = ETS contol unit, ground or circuit

Oh dear, sounds like a dodgy connection somewhere. Maybe take the Computer apart and check the plugs/solder joints (assuming you've done the other diagnosis steps).

7 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

* downloads workshop manual *
24 or continually on = ETS contol unit, ground or circuit

Oh dear, sounds like a dodgy connection somewhere. Maybe take the Computer apart and check the plugs/solder joints (assuming you've done the other diagnosis steps).

I have a thread going in general maintenance about all the crap ive been through with my 4wd lately. I fixed the ets cu issue with a new used ecu. still trying to figure what killed my old one, all the connectors look very clean. I also took apart the old ecu it looked mint I have pictures posted on the topic.  no other codes on the ets unit other than code 24 and it only threw it when car was running. cheers mate thanks for help. I thought  I knew a lot about these cars but im finding out I still have much to learn.

If anyone out there has a r32 GTR and they plan on doing all their own maintenance from there own garage, print this off. it will be your new best friend. With this manual tackling more difficult jobs are possible, and will save you money trouble shooting. Buy a compression tester and a good voltage meter. Cheers I’m gunna post my body restore in about 2 weeks. New weather striping, glass, felts, gunna do a nismo interior. Will keep posted cheers.

F856B24C-88F8-4925-A48A-34DB6ADEE601.jpeg

95189E3C-4E2A-4ED4-9252-E53E1316F013.jpeg

 

Thread hijack here ? 

Hehe. My manual is neatly binded love it. Goldmine of info. I've heard there is a body and electrics manual for 32/33 but can't find this. Anyone heard of this or am I chasing a Unicorn? ?

the only other manual I know about and have is the rb26dett engine manual. very indepth detail for tear down and rebuild. as far as the electrical manual goes I don't think there any. ive had lots of in depth wiring issues with this car that I have solved with  he bnr32 manual. all the electrical is in there throughout the manual. if your having issues with your 32 electrically im sure I can help, cheers m8. my car is currently being restrored new glass, weather stripping, felts, gunna be absdolutely mint cant wait to post some pics of her for the boys  when shes done.  also building custom 4 inch exhaust all the way back with a new tune on WMI. will keep posted.

On 31/01/2020 at 7:52 PM, trel said:

 

Thread hijack here ? 

Hehe. My manual is neatly binded love it. Goldmine of info. I've heard there is a body and electrics manual for 32/33 but can't find this. Anyone heard of this or am I chasing a Unicorn? ?

The Aussie 32gtr manual is the complete engine and chassis manual.  The 33 manual you speak of is the R33 chassis manual, not the more common 33 engine manual, both sold by jpnz. Don't know of any electronic version out there to download for that manual...

Is the Aussie 32 manual the same as that one I have printed out? Finally had a nice day to take the 32 in for paint. Will post again in a couple weeks with pictures. 

FE262B13-246E-44E6-989C-9B9CB4668ED2.jpeg

good stuff. off topic question here I know its being covered a million times all over the forum, but my single plate clutch has started slipping after new exhaust and turning boost up to 1.2 bar with tune on e85.  leaning towards Nismo twin or orc twin. unless im out of the loop in clutch technology these seemed like good options for my setup(ive had the orc twin it was kind of tricky to drive on street but hooked up nice when needed. 450whp on e85 tuned with haltec and I wont be changing my setup for a long time.  cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...

super cold lately in Canada last few weeks so I fired up the old arc welder and took a shot and making my own 4” exhaust with test pipe delete. Welds are about as pretty as my grandmothers skin tags but she’s sealed up nice and sounds not bad with a hks muff at the back! Farm built that’s how we do it?

B79B9EEC-92E9-4CF2-89CE-316E65B11CD4.jpeg

Was able to get the hks muffler cleaned up and shining again from her 25 year old life....cost me 250 Canadian dollars to build. Sure nice to not have to deal with that crap 3” test pipe now. Gunna crank the boost and retune on e85 now. Happy easy breathing rb now! Definitely lost some low end power with the 4” with my setup. Egt’s are much lower now which was my goal.

B87638FF-701E-48FE-9B03-EF936BA12D7E.jpeg

5ED1975F-017F-490F-91A7-C1E085A6D62A.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...