Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Parts List

 

OEM Nissan Parts:

 

R33 Gtr Rb26dett Engine

R33 Gtr 5 Speed Transmission

R34 Gtr Front Subframe

R34 Gtr Front Lower Control Arms

R34 Gtr Front Upper Control Arms

R34 Gtr Front Knuckles

R34 Gtr Steering Rack and Pinion

R34 Gtr Front Sway Bar

R34 Gtr Front Coilovers (Ohlins)

R34 Gtr Front Axles

R34 Gtr Front Brakes

R34 Gtr Front Brake Lines

R33 Gtr Front Prop Shaft

R33 Gtr Main Prop Shaft

R34 Gtr Rear Subframe

R34 Gtr Rear Diff

R34 Gtr Rear Axles

R34 Gtr Rear Control Arms

R34 Gtr Rear Hubs

R34 Gtr Rear Brakes

R34 Gtr Rear Brake Lines

R34 Gtr Rear Sway Bar

R33 Gtr Attesa Pump

R33 Gtr Attesa Fluid Reservoir

R33 Gtr Transmission Crossmember

 

 

Aftermarket Parts

 

Engine:

HKS 2.8L Rotating Kit

HKS Valve Springs

Tomei Pro Cams

HKS Timing Belt

HKS Cam Gears

N1 Oil Pump

N1 Water Pump

HKS Gaskets

G-Force Silicone Coolant Hoses

Reworked R34 N1 Turbos

Tomei Turbo Dump Pipes

Apexi Downpipe

Nismo Flywheel

Nismo Clutch

 

Fuel System:

AEM In-tank Fuel Pump

Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator

8 AN Fuel Lines

Aluminum Fuel Rail

GM Flex Fuel Sensor

 

Chassis:

Nismo Engine Mounts

Nismo Transmission Mount

HKS Exhaust

Chase Bays AN Power Steering Hose

R34 Gtr Aluminum Radiator

 

Electronics:

Adaptronic eMod004 ECU

Full Race ETS-Pro Diff Controller

Wiring Specialties RB26 Universal Pro Engine Harness

Greddy Boost Control Solenoid

Depo Wideband 02 Gauge

R33 Gtr Drop Resister

R33 Gtr Ignighter

 

Misc:

HKS M35 Spark Plugs

HKS Oil Filter

Royal Purple Engine Oil

Royal Purple Gear Oil

Royal Purple ATF

3D Printed MAF Delete Pipes

Sprinkle of Magic

 

 

 

 

 

  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...

I'm curious to know whether the OP had to modify the chassis legs to clear the front axles. It would be a show stopper in NZ. See the raised section on the BNR34 chassis:

tempsnip.png

Edited by NZ-GTT

 I found that the GTR subframe sits approximately 2 inches lower in the car than the GTT sub frame.   So what I did was box the end of the sub frame mounts adding that additional 2 inches and contouring it to the frame of the GTT.   Then I drilled 1 inch holes through the existing frame rails vertically and sleeved them with a .060 wall tube.   I attached the sub frame to the existing frame rails using 1/2 inch grade 8 hardware.   Keep in mind that you also need to modify the driver side floor pan as well as the driver side frame rail to except the GTR transmission mount.   

C003EE28-3D5B-4A4C-8E22-C43BECEF2B24.jpeg

B6E4093D-EA5B-48ED-8A41-4A47C16A7788.jpeg

420BFFF6-6CD6-4258-B345-87475C14A8D5.jpeg

089828ED-F4CE-4066-97CB-7C2D5D07C532.jpeg

15FA9475-3301-4020-9637-9D8E9F6C5595.jpeg

ECCE8B9D-E209-49CA-9C22-FB531D2D8345.jpeg

8F71C6AF-9942-4297-A24D-2F4E77846DBD.jpeg

9B20962A-B9F0-47CC-99C2-BE0ADB207C50.jpeg

B12AAD06-0A81-44F1-AF1C-E86B1177CE2A.jpeg

80B366A1-CC4D-4C9A-9307-8131B3AE067D.jpeg

5905F6B1-1713-4396-A647-B49B0D05C7EE.jpeg

94EB83E6-B13C-4413-96E7-92904C7556B9.jpeg

B18C9BE4-F386-4E0B-BF2C-AF1A56CC0BEF.jpeg

54557C5C-1647-4B1C-A8D5-15C81F45BC6F.jpeg

C498A7FB-5A78-4011-9C46-5EE305A5CE37.jpeg

F85E88C7-E5FB-4C64-B696-F17F17937EF4.jpeg

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...